The Jackson Kayak Big Rig due to its width a full length anchor trolley will ride up the side of the rod trough. This article explains the benefits and how to install a Split Anchor Trolley System on the Big Rig.

The definition of an anchor trolley is a loop of rope mounted to a kayak via two points which allows control of its anchoring point from the seated position. Essentially functions like a clothes line.

A split anchor trolley system is actually composed of two separate anchor trolleys. One located on the starboard side and the other located on the port side. One from the seated position to the bow and the other from the seated position to the stern.

The benefits of the split anchor trolley set up are the ability to anchor from two points at one time eliminating spinning of the kayak. Other benefits include a shorter loop is less invasive.

Things you will need:

• 4 Pulleys Stainless Steel
• 1/8″ bungee – Color of choice
• at least 30 feet of reflective 5/32″ poly rope or para chord
• 1 Pad Eye
• 2 SealectDesigns Deck Fitting – Double Loop
• 2 Nuts bolts and rubber washers.
• (2) 1 1/4″ Nylon Rings
• 2 Carabiner’s with eyes

DIY Install:

This install is currently set up for Stake Out Poles. For a bottom hook anchor system you will need additional cleats not mentioned int his article.

You will need to decide which side you would like the trolley to be on. Either left on the bow and right on the stern or right on the bow and left on the stern.

The front trolley will require drilling of a deck loop.I installed mine just under  the front of the rod tip protector. Previously using the screw in the front of the rod tip protector proved not to work correctly. The line rode up the side of the boat. Using the deck loop corrected the problem. To install that you will need to drill and using the 2 stainless bolts neoprene washers and nuts secure it to the boat.

To install the Sealect Designs Double Deck fitting simply remove the screw of the side handle at the center of the kayak (near the seating position). Slide the deck fitting and with a little Lok Tite refasten the screw. Do this for leash points as stated in the previous article!  This will allow you to clip the carabiner. The other side is for leashing rods and gear.

Using the shock cord about 12″ for each pulley tie a double overhand knot after running through he handle deck loops in all four positions. You want 6-10″ of looped shock cord as this will absorb the pull of the anchor.

Once the pulleys are tied in place one to the bow on the Deck Loop with the shock cord. Now run 2 lengths of the the poly rope through the pulleys you want the tag ends to be at the bottom. You will now tie using half hitches to each side of the nylon ring. I like to use the poly rope or para cord with the reflective band weaved in. It adds a length of visibility at night.

Once all ends are tied to the rings burn the ends so the rope does not unravel over time.  The system is now complete. Leave a tag end to adjust in the future as the rope weathers it may become slack. Simply retie. After fishing in salt water do rinse down the systems just to keep them moving through the pulleys and the rope will then last longer.

Tight lines!

Disclaimer:

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Jackson Kayak has really simplified the installation of fish finders for the end user first with the Big Rig and now with its new offshore kayak the Kraken! Like the Big Rig the Kraken is Raymarine Dragonfly ready. This means the Lowrance HDI skimmer also fits really nice in this scupper with the Lowrance Scupper Mount Kit! This article covers how to install a Lowrance skimmer transducer & Fish Finder on the Kraken in a scupper hole so the transducer is in the water.

Things you will need:

• Lowrance HDI Skimmer
• Lowrance Scupper Transducer Mount Kit
• (2) West Marine Wire Cap
• Drill with 1″ hole saw
• Philips head screw driver
• 2 waterproof butt connectors
• 3/8″ diameter x 4″ long heat shrink tubing

Install:

First unwrap the transducer cable from its packaging and twist tie. run the wire from the hull through the scupper up to the deck . Unboxing the scupper mount simply follow the diagram. With the HDI/Chirp skimmer you will simply slide the transducer on the track at the bottom of the transducer mount. It needs to be positioned forward on the mount so slide the track all the way up to where the wire goes inside the transducer. Now Slide the foam insert and then through the top bracket that will fit perfectly to the scupper. Using the wing nut thread it all the way down to the top bracket to snug it up. Once snug you may now clip the threaded plastic off flush with the bracket and clip the cap over.

Now to run the transducer wire to the inside of the kayak.  Using a 1″ diameter hole saw drill through the radius area of the hatch. BE careful as the plastic is ver thin here. Once the hole is made runt he cable through the wire cap and screw the wire cap in using the screw driver. The screws will self tap.

Next for wiring back to the fish finder unit and battery. This is really up to you where you would like the location to be. I tend to keep it out of the way of where fishing line cannot fowl with the wires and also so adjusting the location of the fish finder on the fly. Also take into consideration the factory installed battery box tray between the front day hatch and the center hatch (7). In my case the fish finder location is to be on the center hatch tracks and being fully adjustable to slide the entire length of the track. The decision to run the wired through the deck in front of the center hatch in my case was the conclusion. This location allows the wires to swing and not get int he way when operating the hatch. The next step will be fabricating a track mount console that will allow me to mount the fish finder to the center of the hatch.

To connect the battery using a plug connector first slide a 3-4″ x 3/8″ diameter heat shrink tubing over the bare wire side of the Lowrance power wire. Crimp the butt connectors to the wires with the  correct polarity and heat shrink the connectors. Then slide over the 3/8″ heat shrink tubing and shrink  the connectors in. I prefer to use clear heat shrink tubing due to all of the use int he salt water. Sometimes connections fail and have water seep in. This speeds up the trouble shooting as now the corrosion is detectable visually.

Complete!

Check it out a DIY GearTrac mounted Bait Cutting Board!

As saltwater anglers tend to use a lot of cut bait this was the best conclusion I came to. Prior to the cutting board I would cut bait on the deck of my kayak. Which was ruining the aesthetics of the deck.

While at Walmart browsing though the kitchen aisle I stumbled across a polymer cheese cutting board priced at $3.00. As kayak anglers we are constantly thinking of things to rig out our kayaks.

At first keeping the board in my milk crate but once it was full of bait I wanted a place that would could keep the bait on the board and covered with a rag. Then YakAttack started offering T-Bolt kits of loose bolts and nylon thumb nuts. The Jackson Big Rig has factory installed Geartracs on both sides which make it the best place to mount the board. Cutting bunker chunks cleaning and stripping out squid on this board is perfect. Its out of the way from my paddle stroke and my steering.

Tip: You can also use a screwball as an attachment point with an additional ram mount for a camera or rod holder!