Since the Cuda 14 was released by Jackson Kayak paddlers have expressed that they felt the Smart Track Rudder was too small for the boat. There is now a solution for that.  The SEA-LECT Designs Trucourse Rudder system. The function of the rudder on a kayak is to increase the tracking in windy situations.  As the paddler adjusts the rudder to compensate for the wind keeping the kayak straight will save the paddler energy.

The Jackson Kayak Cuda 14 used in this modification write up had a factory installed Smart Track rudder system at the time of purchase.
It is possible to use the factory installed steering components and line to raise/lower the rudder with a few slight modifications. ThePlasticHull.net  at this time would recommend that you order your kayak from your local Jackson Kayak Dealer without a rudder system installed and that you would do the entire install with SEA-LECT Designs rudder kit following that kits specific manufacturers instructions until and if this rudder system is ever becomes an option from the Jackson Kayak factory. Your local dealer may also have a shop where they may be able to provide the service to install the rudder kit for an additional charge.

This modification will vary from a full kit install being that there was no need to install sliding foot braces steering cables or trim lines plus run all the tubing these cables and lines require to travel through. Merely this was done to see if the system would work on the Cuda 14.

The Diagram to the left shows the location of the factory trim line and then the modified location to work with the SEA-LLECT Designs Rudder.

The new drilled hole is 2 inches from the center line of the edge of the hatch depression to the center line of the drilled hole for the trim line tubing & rope itself. This is only necessary of modifying a Cuda with a factory rudder installed.

Also depicted is the factory installed steering cable and rudder cable. The location of the steering cable does not need to be modified here. Only the connecting hardware needs to be removed. This is done simply by removing the cotter pin pushing the cable inside the mounting bracket and removing the sedge inside. This will free the cable and allow it to be removed.

The SEA-LECT Designs rudder has an innovative way of  fastening the steering cables. Using an Hex Key tool remove 2 screws each to remove the covers on each side. By loosening up the clamp screw and running the steering cable to the center and then to the rear and tightening down just a little bit.  You will need to center the tracks to the rudder to do this slide the tracks even with the track and this will be your center point. Pull the cable through the rudder till taught but not to move the track off center. Then tighten down the clamp screw.

The image above shows the location of the trim line and the new hole drilled along with the 1/4″ wire hanger and stainless steel screw. The existing hole that the trim line penetrated at the stern was just filled with a bead of Lexel. Now to change out the trim line function. Remove the screw at the front of the existing line. If your Cuda has not had a factory installed rudder there should be a plastic screw in this place. Replace this with a screw or if rudder package is installed use the existing screw but add a rigging hook. This will be for the trim line to loop over when the rudder is in the up position. Untie the bungee from the trim line. Now you will pull the trim line to the bow until the rudder is in the up position. This is where you will tie a non slipping loop knot so when looped around the rigging hook the rudder stays in the up position. Now to lower the rudder simply pull the loop off the hook letting it go. The rudder will slide down.

Below is the modified rudder trim control. By releasing the loop from the hook the rudder will go down. By pulling the trim line and hooking the loop the rudder goes up and locks.

The rudder also has an adjustable depth control. You may want to adjust the height when fishing flats and shallow areas then adjust it down for deeper water. Also for best performance the rudder should not be pulled all of the way up and forward. It could cause the rudder to get stuck in the up position. You may want to tie a knot in the trim line at the stern of the kayak to stop the rudder from being pulled too far.

Disclaimer:

Installing hardware may cause damage and/or void manufacturer warranties.  ThePlasticHull.net its authors or any other source of information on this website is in no way responsible for your actions nor any type issues or damage that may occur.  The information provided on this website is a free reference guide only. The authors of all information, sponsors and the owners of the website that host this information are not liable for any problems or issues that arise from the use of this information. Users of this information hereby acknowledge that all use of this information is done by their own free will, at their own sole risk, understanding that destruction of property, injury, or death could occur.

The YakAttack NITEstripe is a great way to customize and give your boat a little character with the added safety.

The NITEstripe is an inexpensive product offered by YakAttack. There are multiple colors available including White, Yellow, Red, Green, Blue, Orange, Pink, and Black.  The adhesive strip reflects light at night making you more visible to other boats while night fishing.

Read the instructions carefully. The NITEstripe must be applied to a clean and dry surface. Rubbing alcohol and a paper towel works best.

The rudder cable on the left foot brace of my Cuda 14 snapped in Cape May. I decided to purchase new cable and parts to replace both sides. This repair is standard for all Jackson Kayak Fishing Kayak models with smart rudder packages installed.

This is a tutorial on how to replace the existing rudder cables with new stainless steel aircraft cable.

Parts needed:

2 Rudder Fork End

2 Clevis Pins

2 Rudder Cable Stop Sleeves

2 Aluminum Swedge (cable crimp)

20 feet of Stainless Steel Rudder Cable

Bike Chain Oil

Shrink Wrap Tubing

All of these parts can be acquired from your local kayak shop or online at http://www.thekayakfishingstore.com/c/Kayak-Rudders.html

Step 1:

To remove the foot track. With a 3/8″ open end wrench and a Philips head screw driver remove the screw behind the foot control track towards the rear of the kayak.

This will allow you to swivel the track upwards and slide the foot pin portion of the foot control track out exposing the cable and the screw it is mounted to. Unscrew where the cable mounts to the track. If the cable is already broken using sheet metal snips or dykes cut the cable so there is no fraying. If not just cut the end metal eye off. Once this is done go to the rudder and slide the cable out of the cable tube. Remove the split ring and the pin holding the existing cable to the rudder. This will detach the existing cable.

Step 2:

Insert the new stainless steel cable into the tubing starting at the foot control. As you slide in the cable inch by inch lube it with a continuous bead of bike chain oil. This will help the cable slide within the tube, keep water out, and hopefully prolong the beginning of any type of corrosion. Once it passes out of the tube at the stern stop feeding after 18″ is exposed.

Step 3:

You will now pass the cable through the opening in the rudder fork then put the cable through the rudder cable stop bullet sleeve. Let about an inch protrude through the sleeve and crimp. If you do not have the aircraft cable stop bullet crimp tool you can use a hammer and a heavy piece of steel to smash it on there with. Then you may cut off the remaining cable end and using the new clevis pin attach to the rudder.

Repeat steps 1 – 3 for the opposite side.

 Step 4:

Attaching the cables to the foot control. Now this is the area where you want to center the rudder and adjust accordingly so everything is perfectly centered. Using the existing screw and nut on the foot brace add 2 washers to hold the cable loop. Slide on the swedge and a 3 inch piece of heat shrunk tubing on the steering cable.  Set the loop of the new cable between the washers and and tighten the nut. The washers will compress the cable and lock it into place. Crimp the swedge with flat pliers locking the cable into place close to the connection of the foot brace. Once complete slide the heat shrink tubing over the cable and clip the tag end back leaving an inch of cable. Now use a heat gun the shrink the tubing over the swedge, the tag end, and the leading end of the cable to protect it from hanging up on anything.

Video to follow soon.