Jackson Kayak has really simplified the installation of fish finders for the end user first with the Big Rig and now with its new offshore kayak the Kraken! Like the Big Rig the Kraken is Raymarine Dragonfly ready. This means the Lowrance HDI skimmer also fits really nice in this scupper with the Lowrance Scupper Mount Kit! This article covers how to install a Lowrance skimmer transducer & Fish Finder on the Kraken in a scupper hole so the transducer is in the water.

Things you will need:

• Lowrance HDI Skimmer
• Lowrance Scupper Transducer Mount Kit
• (2) West Marine Wire Cap
• Drill with 1″ hole saw
• Philips head screw driver
• 2 waterproof butt connectors
• 3/8″ diameter x 4″ long heat shrink tubing

Install:

First unwrap the transducer cable from its packaging and twist tie. run the wire from the hull through the scupper up to the deck . Unboxing the scupper mount simply follow the diagram. With the HDI/Chirp skimmer you will simply slide the transducer on the track at the bottom of the transducer mount. It needs to be positioned forward on the mount so slide the track all the way up to where the wire goes inside the transducer. Now Slide the foam insert and then through the top bracket that will fit perfectly to the scupper. Using the wing nut thread it all the way down to the top bracket to snug it up. Once snug you may now clip the threaded plastic off flush with the bracket and clip the cap over.

Now to run the transducer wire to the inside of the kayak.  Using a 1″ diameter hole saw drill through the radius area of the hatch. BE careful as the plastic is ver thin here. Once the hole is made runt he cable through the wire cap and screw the wire cap in using the screw driver. The screws will self tap.

Next for wiring back to the fish finder unit and battery. This is really up to you where you would like the location to be. I tend to keep it out of the way of where fishing line cannot fowl with the wires and also so adjusting the location of the fish finder on the fly. Also take into consideration the factory installed battery box tray between the front day hatch and the center hatch (7). In my case the fish finder location is to be on the center hatch tracks and being fully adjustable to slide the entire length of the track. The decision to run the wired through the deck in front of the center hatch in my case was the conclusion. This location allows the wires to swing and not get int he way when operating the hatch. The next step will be fabricating a track mount console that will allow me to mount the fish finder to the center of the hatch.

To connect the battery using a plug connector first slide a 3-4″ x 3/8″ diameter heat shrink tubing over the bare wire side of the Lowrance power wire. Crimp the butt connectors to the wires with the  correct polarity and heat shrink the connectors. Then slide over the 3/8″ heat shrink tubing and shrink  the connectors in. I prefer to use clear heat shrink tubing due to all of the use int he salt water. Sometimes connections fail and have water seep in. This speeds up the trouble shooting as now the corrosion is detectable visually.

Complete!

Creating a semi-permanent install for multiple kayaks is a challenge. Since most of us fish on a budget two separate fish finder units is not feasible. For about 1/4 the price of a new Lowrance Elite 5 HDI unit you may purchase a new Transducer, Power cable, and the neat Lowrance kayak scupper mount kit. This application is only for sit on top kayaks like the Big Rig with round scupper holes. The mount and this particular transducer as of 2014 other Jackson Kayak Models will not work due to the oval scupper shape and being that the bottom of the supper is simply not wide enough to accept the transducer mounted flush.

In the photo to the left shown is the un-boxed scupper mount and the transducer and cable. This transducer has been a challenge to mount to other kayaks until the Big Rig with its enlarged hull scupper clearance as it is Raymarine ready.

To install simply using the bolt washers mount to the bottom of the scupper mount as you would the transom mount. Once this is completed pull the plug end of the transducer wire from the bottom of the scupper through towards the deck. Once all of the cable is pulled then insert the threaded plastic into the scupper. The transducer should face bolted end/cable to the bow. Then slide the gray fitting down the threaded shaft and tighten the thumb nut all the way down until snug. Once fit you may cut the shaft and place the Lowrance cap on top. Done!!

This is the best way to install any transducer out there. You get accurate temperature readings and a completely better signal for clarity rather than the shoot thru hull option.

I prefer to hide all of my wires and cables within the hull of the kayak. Just less mess less things to snag your hooks on and the best way to protect expensive electronics cables. Due to the 1″ diameter colors on the Lowrance HDI plugs we need to drill a 1″ hole to get these cables inside the hull. Now that’s a huge hole. It took a while to find a part to seal this with for a really clean install. I’m not the type that likes to run cables through hatches. West Marine makes a hull pass through that worked perfectly for this application. I have never seen these used on a kayak before but they are excellent. Low profile watertight and clean!

To start use a 1″ boring drill bit. The hull pass through fitting includes a rubber grommet. I used this as a template placing it exactly where the fitting would be placed. Marked the center with a punch and drilled. See drilled hole to the right. Run sonar plug through and using the thru hull cap press firmly with a screwdriver and screws will self tap. The rubber will push out and this when it is tight. Do not over tighten as the screws will strip out the plastic therefore becoming loose.

Do the same steps for the opposite side but this time with the power wire and the transducer plug through 1 hole. This one bring the sonar plug through the hole first. Then snake through from the outside the power wire. The power wire will be then run to your battery location. Mine will be in the stern. The white wire in the photo runs back to the stern for the battery box hook up. I will splice that into the power wire for the unit.

Along with the standard molded in center Gear Track on the Big Rig and paired with a Ram Mounts Electronic Mount for Lowrance this is an excellent system! There are now multiple places to position the unit. The option to slide forward or back or mount to the side Gear tracks however is most comfortable.

If you have any questions about this install or anything else please leave me a comment.

Disclaimer:

Installing hardware may cause damage and/or void manufacturer warranties.  ThePlasticHull.net its authors or any other source of information on this website is in no way responsible for your actions nor any type issues or damage that may occur.  The information provided on this website is a free reference guide only. The authors of all information, sponsors and the owners of the website that host this information are not liable for any problems or issues that arise from the use of this information. Users of this information hereby acknowledge that all use of this information is done by their own free will, at their own sole risk, understanding that destruction of property, injury, or death could occur.

The new Lowrance Elite 5 HDI chart plotter/fish finder’s transducer unfortunately is just too large to be scupper mounted flush on the Cuda. About 1/8″ sticks out on the bottom and i feel this will destroy the transducer over time.

Since this is an HDI unit the transducer needs to be mounted on the exterior of the hull below the waterline. A shoot through hull install with this type of unit will degrade the result of the display. I have two mounting options. One would be the Ram Mounts Transducer flex mount kit. The other being that the Cuda 14 has a removable replaceable skid plate with mounting hardware already molded into the boat. Simply I would have to design a bracket that would mount to the yak via the skid plate and bend up the transom to bolt the transducer through. I think this would eliminate the drag of having a bar and the transducer hanging over the side. Mounted inline with the boats hull it would act as a piece of the hull itself. At least these are my hopes.

Angle Aluminum Stock 1″ x 1/16″ x 36″

I recommend  stainless steel angle but as my choice due to its light weight and non rusting properties in salt water i like to start with aluminum. I also paint it so it is resistant from corroding and pitting. Once the aluminum bracket is fabricated maybe I will make one out of stainless steel. Aluminum is fine due to the trial and error phase of this bracket mount. I am two seasons into my previous scupper mount fabrication where i used aluminum and still see minimal corrosion. The kayak doesn’t sit in the salt water and if its rinsed with fresh water every time it prolongs the life.

Angle alum & Skid Plate

I decided to measure where the bend in the aluminum would be and using a Dremel tool cut of one side off the angle to make it flat.

Bend & Drill to align

I measured the existing skid plate screw holes and drilled appropriately for mounting.

Mounted to Skid Plate for measuring

Once the holes were drilled I mounted the bracket to measure with the transducer the amount of angle needed to mount the skimmer so it was aligned flush with the underside of the hull.

side view mounted to skid plate before cutting

Once i cut the long piece off it looked like this (below)

Transducer Mount after cutting

Transducer Mount after cutting

 Once this was done I aligned the transducer with the bottom of the hull and marked where to drill the hole. Then painted the bracket with black paint to resist the corrosive salt water.

Painted!

Now for mounting!!

Mounted Transducer

Mounted Transducer

Mounted Transducer

Mounted Transducer

Mounted Transducer

Mounted Transducer

Mounted Transducer

Mounted Transducer

Mounted Transducer!

Thats a pretty clean mount! I hope it wil work with loading and unloading the yak on and off my truck. Unfortunatlly it was the best solution but i think it will be fine!

Next will need to run the wiring so i have to figure out how im going to run all of the wire through the hull temporarily for the remainder of the season. These Lowrance wires and plugs are very large and makes the install tough. As in the photos below you can see my existing install using C-Caps. The plug collar is actually larger than the 3/4″ hole drilled here.  I might be temporarily installing through the hatch and then replacing the hatch in the future.  This will give me a chance to hinge the back end of the hatch. At least i can try it once before the final with out worrying about it being pretty..

Existing Hull Pass Through

Existing Hull Pass Through

Disclaimer:

Installing hardware may cause damage and/or void manufacturer warranties.  ThePlasticHull.net its authors or any other source of information on this website is in no way responsible for your actions nor any type issues or damage that may occur.  The information provided on this website is a free reference guide only. The authors of all information, sponsors and the owners of the website that host this information are not liable for any problems or issues that arise from the use of this information. Users of this information hereby acknowledge that all use of this information is done by their own free will, at their own sole risk, understanding that destruction of property, injury, or death could occur.