How To: Upgrade Steering on the Big Rig

This particular install replaces the Jackson Factory installed Smart Track foot brace steering system. This article explains how to upgrade the steering on the Big Rig utilizing the Sea-lect Designs Toe Pilot foot braces. Using The Toe Pilot system you will simply angle the pedals like you would press a gas or brake pedal on a car to steer the rudder or electric motor. This eliminates the entire track sliding and one knee bent and one straight. Your entire day of fishing will be much more comfortable after this upgrade!

Illustrated in the video this upgrade is a semi advanced install but not an extremely difficult one. This upgrade will also work with the big rig stock Tru-Course rudder. This install conforms to the Torqeedo Ultralight 403 motor steering.

If your big rig does not have a steering kit factory installed Sea-lect Designs does manufacture a full Thru Hull Tru Course Rudder Kit which includes the toe pilot foot braces. The additional part if the install will be running the rudder cable tubing through the kayak.

Video of the install!

This article is the install breakdown and How To.

Tools Needed for full install:

• 3/8″ socket
• 1/4″ Ratchet
• 3/8″ Open end box wrench
• Short Philips head screwdriver
• Hex Key Set
• Pry Tool
• Drill
• Drill Bits
• Diagonal Wire Cutters
• Needle Nose Pliers
• Heat Gun
• Razor Blade

Parts & Materials Needed:

• Sea-Lect Designs Toe Pilot Foot Braces K747205-1
• Sea-Lect Designs Cable Adjusters K747260-1
• 30 feet of stainless steel rudder cable
• Heat Shrink Tubing
• 8 Swedges or Cable Crimps
• Lexel or Marine Goop
• 2 9″ Lengths of 3/16″ Bungee Chord
• #10 x 24 1 1/4″ Long Philips head bolt (Hardware Store)
• #10 Washer (Hardware Store)

For Torqeedo Setup:

• 3/16″ Carabeners with eye

Install Instructions:

Removing Existing Smart track System Foot Braces Start with the front bolt. Using a 3/8″ socket with a 1/4″ drive and a Short Philips head screw drive remove the thru hull nut and bolt . Slide the foot brace forward to reveal the rear screw. Now remove the it with a Philips head screw driver. Slide off the back plate and now remove the cable from the foot brace using the 3/8″ socket. Cut the terminal connector from the end of the cable and remove the cable from the stern leaving the tubing in place.

Now you will need to remove the rivet that holds the cable tubing in place as it is int he area of where the new track will be installed. Using a drill bit drill out the center of the rivet until the flange falls off. The back portion of the rivet will fall inside the hull. Patch this hole using a plastic weld or Lexel caulk adhesive.Now using the #10 X 24 – 1 1/4″ bolt and #10 washer dab a drop of thread lock then fasten the left track to the right side of the kayak to the threaded insert. This will allow you to align the track and drill the new front hole. Once the hole is drilled using the #10 x 24 – 1″ bolt washer and nut fasten securely to the kayak.  The tracks have to be installed upside down in order to reuse the threaded insert. If you would like to mount the tracks the intended way you will need a rigging bullet as it is impossible to reach the rear area of the track to fasten with a thru bolt.

Now once the track is installed repeat the same steps on  the opposite side.

To run the cable.

Run the cable through the cable adjuster first then under the pedal is a hole run through the hole front to back then wrap it around in the groove then through the metal adjuster pulley at the top and then back to the rudder cable tubing which you will then run the cable through to the stern of the kayak. The cable wraps around the toe pilot like an ‘S’ pattern shape.

Once at the stern you will now connect the cable to your factory installed Tru-Course Rudder or in this cast to the Torqeedo steering bracket. Make sure the rudder or motor is centered at the same time the Toe Pilot pedal should be at 90 degrees to the kayak deck. This is to be center for both sides.

Now terminate the end at the cable adjuster by looping the cable through (2) swedges and crimping. Remove the tag end of cable using the diagonal wire cutters. Slide heat shrink tubing over and heat to protect the cut end and the swedges.

Refer to the image above for completed install.

Disclaimer:

Installing hardware may cause damage and/or void manufacturer warranties.  ThePlasticHull.net its authors or any other source of information on this website is in no way responsible for your actions nor any type issues or damage that may occur.  The information provided on this website is a free reference guide only. The authors of all information, sponsors and the owners of the website that host this information are not liable for any problems or issues that arise from the use of this information. Users of this information hereby acknowledge that all use of this information is done by their own free will, at their own sole risk, understanding that destruction of property, injury, or death could occur.

This is not a kit install but a custom anchor trolley.   I wanted it to be unique.

Things you will need

• 2 Pulleys Stainless Steel
• 1/8″ bungee – Color of choice
• at least 30 feet of reflective 5/32″ poly rope
• 2 Deck Loops
• 4 Nuts bolts and rubber washers.
• 2″ Nylon Ring

(Below Not Photoed)

• Galvanized Hog Rings
• Heat Shrink Tubing

Tools

• Drill
• Torch or Bic Lighter
• Pocket Knife
• Philips screw Driver
• 3/8″ Socket
• 1/4″ Drive Socket Wrench
• Pliers

What is an Anchor Trolley and why is it needed?

Access the bow or stern is basically impossible unless you were to get off the kayak and swim there. Simply using a block and loop conveyor system aka Anchor Trolley. An anchor trolley is basically a clothing line that is used to shift the point of your anchoring from cockpit to both bow and stern. An anchor trolley can be installed on either side of the kayak or both. Its all about how you the angler would prefer to use the system.

Now to install your anchor trolley. First you will cut (2) 8″ lengths of the 1/8″ bungee. Use the Torch or Bic lighter to fuse the Nylon sheath around the rubber bungee chords. This will ensure the bungee will not fall apart.

Now you will insert each bungee into the eye of the block and tie both ends together with a knot.

Once this is done its time to locate the Pad Eyes or the attachment location to the kayak. Approx 12″ from tip of bow and stern. Drill the upper hole first and thread the bolt in to hold the pad eye in place. Angle the pad eye away from the bow on a 45 degree angle but make sure it is flat to the boat. Drill the second hole and thread in. Using the washer with the rubber on the inside make sure that faces the inside of the hull. Snug the nut down tight enough where its not going to move. Repeat the same for the stern. Once the pad eyes are installed connect the blocks to each one.

Using the poly reflective rope and run it through the bow block first bottom to top and back to the stern block top to bottom. With the tag end of the rope slide on a piece of heat shrink tubing then loop it through the Nylon ring leaving about 3″ excess crimp two Hog Rings as close to the nylon ring as possible around the tag end and the main line of the poly rope making the loop permanent around the nylon ring. Cut the tag end of the rope back 1/2″ before the Hog Ring. You will now slide the heat shrink tubing over the tag end and the hog rings. Using a heat gun shrink the tubing but take caution not to burn the poly rope nylon ring or heat shrink.

now pull rope from spool end to the nylon ring and add 12″ and cut. Burn end of the rope and run the new tag end through the ring. Snug up the trolley and using 5 half hitches tie the line. Using half hitches will make the trolley adjustable in the future as the rope gets wet it may stretch. Simply un-tie and re-tie snug again.

You have now successfully installed an anchor trolley on your Jackson Cuda 14!

Disclaimer:

Installing hardware may cause damage and/or void manufacturer warranties.  ThePlasticHull.net its authors or any other source of information on this website is in no way responsible for your actions nor any type issues or damage that may occur.  The information provided on this website is a free reference guide only. The authors of all information, sponsors and the owners of the website that host this information are not liable for any problems or issues that arise from the use of this information. Users of this information hereby acknowledge that all use of this information is done by their own free will, at their own sole risk, understanding that destruction of property, injury, or death could occur.

This new Electronics Battery Box will accommodate a large 12v 12Ah sealed battery.  Before drilling holes in a dry box make sure your box will fit through the hatch on your kayak.

Dimensions of the battery

Length 5.94 inches

Width 3.86 inches

Height 3.74 inches

Weight 7.95 lbs

You can find these batteries new on ebay for $20 – $30. The higher amp hour is good for running fish finder chart plotter combos with color screens. These use a higher amount of amps than the black & white units the 7.5 Ah batteries just don’t perform as well for a full day of fishing.

List of Materials:

• 1 Battery as mentioned above $23.00 ebay
• 1 Dry box that will accommodate the size of the battery $23.00 ebay
• 1 Small Cable Gland $1.00
• 1  Wire with inline waterproof connector (4 wire 4 pin) Possible future lighting or other accessories $4.80 Amazon
• 2 inline heat shrink inline wire crimp connectors
• 1 3″ piece of adhesive 1/2″ heat shrink tubing

Tools:

• Drill
• Heat Gun
• Wire Crimps/Strippers
• Drill bits/ Step Drill Bit

Install: 

Using pipe insulation fit the battery to the box. This will hold the battery in place so it doesn’t bounce around. Next drill a pilot hole using a 1/8″ drill bit. This will be the location of the cable penetration. You can pick pretty much any side. I would say avoid the top the bottom and the back. In this install I opted for the front under the handle. Once the pilot hole is drilled use the step drill bit to ream out the hole until the cable gland will thread in.

Once the cable gland is installed slide the cable with the connector through from the exterior. You will now pick 2 wires from the 4 to pair.  Use the two inline heat shrink connectors Crimp and heat the one side to seal. Now slide over the 3 inch piece of adhesive heat shrink tube. Connect the inline fuse wire and the ground wire. Attach the terminal ends and your DIY waterproof electronics battery box is complete.

Waterproof Battery Box Modifications & Upgrades <— Click for updated post!!!!