My original reasoning for purchasing the Kilroy LT was due to its lightweight for dropping onto creeks with steep muddy banks. These hard to access areas are great for fishing and waterfowl hunting but are inaccessible by most power boats. The Kilroy LT preformed great in this area but to my surprise the kayak is a great all around fishing machine! Taking the boat out in many different types of water it became my main kayak for this season. It was nice to go back to the traditional sit in kayak/canoe style.

Kilroy LT Realtree Camo Edition Specifications:

• Length: 12′-10″
• Width: 32″
• Weight: 56lbs (62 with seat)
• Capacity: 400 lbs
• Color: Real-tree Hardwoods Camo Pattern

Top Features:

Weight:

At 56lbs this kayak is easy to car top. There are many areas that are not accessible by trailer. The lightweight of the Kilroy LT allows dropping in and out at tough areas. The thermoformed lightweight plastic allows this.

Rigid Hull:

The rigidity of the kayaks thermoformed ABS plastic hull makes the boat stiffer. Therefore paddles better than its rotomolded cousin. The less flex in the hull the more perfornamce gained.

Realtree Camo Pattern:

The kayak is ideal for hunting with its unique realistic camo print. The RealTree hardwoods camo pattern blends into the surroundings pretty well. I was actually amazed due to it not being the RealTree Max5 which is more ideal for salt marsh.

Flat Deck Flooring:

The Kilroy line of kayaks all have a built in Flat flooring system allowing comfortable standing. Built into the floor system is the high low seating platform, a Cup Holder with bungee to secure it, and the standard Jackson Kayak Stand Up assist strap. Located behind the seating platform is a bungee system for lashing down a milk crate or a decoy bag.

Ergo Seat:

All day kayak seating. The new ergo seat contours to your back and body to make a great comfortable seat for fishing long term. Included with the kayak and a seat back pouch for extra storage. The seat has also been constructed with closed cell foam for quick drying and max comfort. The seating system can be used in the low and high positions like many other Jackson Kayak models.

High/Low Seating Positions:

Like all Jackson Kayak fishing models the Kilroy LT also has both high and low seating postilions!

Inner Hull Rod Storage:

The inner hull rod stowing system is a great addition. It comes in most handy when transporting gear and fishing in areas of low hanging tree branches. THe ability to stow a fly rod is key. Due to the length

Tech Deck:

The tech deck which is located on the bow or stern lip of the cockpit comes in handy. Both with storage and the ability to mount aftermarket gear tracks allows it to have endless possibility’s for personal rigging. The “glove box” storage bin is a nice addition. I find myself stowing my hat, cellphone, and snacks in there on many occasions.

Gear Tracks:

Gear tracks are factory installed at 4 locations on the gunnels of the kayak. The locations are good for mounting additional rod holders and camera mounts.

Rear Storage Hatch:

The rear hatch is a dry storage area sectioned off by a foam bulkhead which is found in most sit inside style kayaks. The area has 2 purposes. One is the be used for storing gear that will stay dry. Two in the case of capsizing the air filled hatch will keep the kayak afloat.

Ergo Handles:

Equipped with bow stern and 2 side handles these handles are formed to fit ergonomically into your hand. The handles are good for carrying, unloading, and loading the kayak.

Adjustable Foot Braces:

The kayak also is equipped with adjustable footbraces for maximum comfort no matter of your short or tall.

The Goodies:

Like all Jackson Kayak Fishing Line kayaks the Kilroy LT is bundled with a few goodies which include the Elite Seat, (2) RAM Mount rod holders, (2) YakAttack screwballs, a Nalgene water bottle, and long load safety flag.

My Rigging:

Currently I have rigged the Kilroy to the max benefits of how and what I use it for. The first addition was a Torqeedo Ultralight 403. Rigging this boat for foot steering controls was a task but fairly easy. You can find my detailed Torqeedo install article here.

Rudder:

The kayak can also be fitted with a rudder system also using the same sealect designs Trucourse Kayak Rudder system. Using the same methods and the addition of a rudder bracket at the stern this can be easily accomplished.

Torqeedo Ultalight 403 Electric Outboard

The installation of the 403 on this kayak is an amazing addition. The kayak is completely hands free steering with your feet you are free to cat and fish tie rigs and even check you social media on your phone when cruising between fishing spots. Trolling with the Ultralight 403 is a complete change to paddling to troll. Maintaining speed and adjusting between wind and currents is a breeze.

Keel Protection:

I then added Keelguard. This is a PVC type of protective strip that adhears to the kayaks keel. ABS is less abrasive resistant than polypropylene rotomold. Therefor its good to protect it from scuffing. It will add years to your investment.

Anchoring:

I then rigged the kayak with a YakAttack Kayak LeverLock Deluxe Anchor Trolley AMS-1003 system. Using the new stealth pulleys which avoids fishing line snags.

Stand assist:

I also rigged the Kilroy with the Yakattack command stand. With the addition of two 4″ gear tracks on the bow. The command stand is a very nice addition to standing and fishing. It also doubles for mounting cameras and other accessories along with its included rotogrip paddle holders.

Rod Holders:

For rod holders currently I Track mounted RAM Mounts 2008 tubes on the rear factory gear tracks. These are easy to reach and work well with the kayak. Also my blackpak stowed behind the seat has an additional 3 rod holders mounted on it for spare rods and to hold a net.

Paddle holder:

I also Track mounted a pair of LunchBox Paddle Parks. This unique system sets the paddle off of the kayak. I also added the mounting clips for the ParkNPole to be stowed here. The system offsets these items to allow the tracks to be unobstructed allowing you to mount multiple accessories on them.

Gear Track Locations:

I also added YakAttack Gear Trac GTSL90 4 Inch Mounting Track to the cockpit side of the tech deck. This allows for a mounting location in reach for my fish finder and camera mounting such as the panfish portrait.

In Hull Water Remediation:

I then fitted the kayak with an electric bilge pump. This allows me to pump water out quickly. It should help for if I am ever swamped. It also works well at removing water dripped in from my paddle feet and of course rain. Remember I do use this kayak out on wide open bays and such with waves. Check out the install here!

My Review:

Over the 2017 fishing season I have fallen in love with the Kilroy LT. It is my go to kayak for fishing bays creeks lakes and ponds. Out of my other kayaks the Cuda 14, The Kraken and the Big Rig. I used the Kilroy most this season at 80%. The Kilroy LT is incredibly stable. For my height 6’1″ and weight 200 lbs it is very close to the stability of the Big Rig. Standing is simple and comfortable due to the installed flat deck. The Kilroy LT like cousin to the Jackson Kayak Cuda has secondary stability. Once you get to that point its locked in. Due to the lower center of gravity standing inside the hull.

The kayak paddles with ease. It has great maneuverability and glides with every stroke. Although the kayak is not factory equipped with a rudder an aftermarket one can be easily added on. Fortunately is not really needed.

The new 2017 ergo seat is comfortable and dries much quicker than previous years seats. The added lumbar support and curved back is perfect for all day fishing. Works really well with high back PFD’s. I however do miss the under seat storage.

The #1 best thing about the Kilroy LT is how light it is. Its a dream to load on my truck and to drop in at otherwise tough places with heavier kayaks.

This kayak is a fly anglers dream. The stability is off the charts and can be rigged with a leaning post along with a stripping bucket with ease.

In the future I hope to get out waterfowl hunting in this kayak!

Cons:

The Kilroy is a sit inside hybrid kayak. It has no scupper holes. Paddling in areas with rough currents and heavy sea conditions are not recommended. Surf launches and landings can be dangerous.

This is a tough kayak to self rescue on. It can be done though.

Rear hatch is small and cannot really be used for much besides a small dry bag. The bow does not contain a hatch. There is a bit of wasted space in the bow that could be used for storage.

Personally i feel there should be more accessory’s but keeping the price where it is out of the factory is a good thing.

There is no skid plate on this model. Install a keel guard, try not to drag or land hard. It will scuff easily and is a much thinner plastic than a rotomolded boat.

Summary:

The Kilroy and the Kilroy LT are hybrid kayaks built to be fishing machines. You’ll fall in love with one. One of the best paddling fishing hybrid style kayaks I have ever used. Weather bass fishing or targeting striper in the salt this is a great all around kayak.

I recommend this kayak for flat water fishing only due to its hybrid sit inside style.  Please check it out at your local Jackson Kayak dealer and ask to take a demo paddle! You’ll love it!

If you have owned a sit inside or hybrid kayak you understand how hard it is to drain water out of it. Especially when its on the roof of your truck full from the rain or out on open water taking waves over the bow. An electric bilge pump is a inexpensive answer to the problem. This article focuses on installing an electric kayak bilge pump inside a Jackson Kilroy LT but can be modified to work with any sit inside style kayak.

Materials:

Tools:

Install:

One of the simpler install on the Kilroy the electric bilge pump should only take 15 minutes to install. The bilge pump location I chose is in front of the stern bulkhead.  This location is idea because tilting the kayak bow up the water will collect here. Being one of the flattest accessible areas will allow the most water to be pumped from the inside deck.

Remove the strainer from the bottom of the pump. Using the silicone spread it on the flat mounting area of the bracket. Firmly press against the hull push it so it adheres to the bulkhead wall. Let dry overnight.

Clip pump into housing bracket. Connect tube to outlet of pump. Choose a location for the 3/4″ Thru-Hull fitting. Make sure the location is above where the waterline of the kayak fully loaded would be. It is important the mounting area should be flat but angle away from the kayak. Mark the desired location and drill a 1″ hole.

Measure the distance to your chosen exit location. With a razor blade cut the tubing leaving some slack. Connect the end to the Thru-Hull fitting and tighten down hose clamps snug.

Wiring Electric Bilge Pump:

Using 2 butt connectors each splice and a 3″ piece of 1/2″ adhesive heat shrink tubing connect the 5′ length of 2 stranded wire to the 12v disconnect. Connect black to black and red to red. Crimp on the butt connectors with a heat gun shrink the ends to the wire. Do the same for the pump leads on the other end of the disconnect and the 12V power plug. Add a dab of Dielectric Grease to each connection on the disconnect plug to fight corrosion and keep it maintained for easy removal. Once the wiring is completed you will mount the disconnect and wires out of the way. This is the storage area of the Kilroy. The less things to snag on is best. I used Cable Tie Mounts and wire ties to hang the wire up under the cockpit lip out of the way.

Battery Connection:

My battery box is set up with a 12V cigarette lighter plug. It is your preference whichever type of connector you would like to connect to the battery! I’m going to see how this works out for now. Maybe add separate switch on the battery box to control the on/off of the cigarette lighter receptacle.

Disclaimer:

Installing hardware may cause damage and/or void manufacturer warranties.  ThePlasticHull.net its authors or any other source of information on this website is in no way responsible for your actions nor any type issues or damage that may occur.  The information provided on this website is a free reference guide only. The authors of all information, sponsors and the owners of the website that host this information are not liable for any problems or issues that arise from the use of this information. Users of this information hereby acknowledge that all use of this information is done by their own free will, at their own sole risk, understanding that destruction of property, injury, or death could occur.

This How To article focuses on a Hybrid style Sit Inside Kayak Torqeedo 403 install. A sit inside kayak creates more challenges for running steering cables and the use of different hardware types such as neoprene washers for thru hull hardware waterproofing. Additionally sit inside kayaks use bulkheads for creating dry storage hatches. Unlike most sit on top kayaks from Jackson Kayak Sit in kayaks like the Kilroy are not rudder ready. Therefore must be fitted for steering.

This install was completed using a 2017 Jackson Kayak Kilroy LT a Hybrid style sit in. The Kilroy LT is manufactured using the thermoform process. This manufacturing process creates a thinner lightweight hull by utilizing acrylic coated ABS plastic material. It results in a kayak 1/3 less weight of its rotomolded cousin.

Tools Needed:

Materials & Products Used:

Replacing the stock footbraces with Sealect Design Tru-Course Footbraces for steering is pretty simple. The Jackson Kayak Kilroy LT has a sub flooring system or deck installed. The Stock footbraces were bolted to the deck prior to riveting to the hull. There are 2 options here.

Option 1:

Is a very time consuming option requires to drill out all 12 rivets that mount the deck to the hull. Remove the deck and replace the foot braces. Then re-insert the deck and rivet 12 and hope it holds in place as well as from the factory. (I did not do this!)

Option 2:

Simple but precise. Rout out 4 access holes in the top of the deck at each bolt end. Start by center punching and drilling a pilot hole. Your local hardware store should carry grommet caps. I used 7/8″ caps to plug the access holes. Place the cap on the area of the future access hole. Using a scribe mark the limits of the cap. Using a Dremel with rotary file rout out to the inscribed limits. Placing the cap make round until cap fits snugly.

Remove stock foot braces with 3/8″ open end wrench on nut and Philips head screwdriver or drill driver. Sealect Designs foot brace remove neoprene washer. Screw will go from inside to outside. Place 7/8″ nut and washer on end and tighten with drill driver. Place caps in access holes.

Steering Cable Tubing:

The Kilroy LT install is unique in this situation. Taking advantage of the deck hiding and threading the cable tubing is much easier. On a normal SOT you would have to run it under the cockpit edge.

Starting at the foot braces drill a hole in the support directly behind. Run tubing through towards rear. Center punch and drill hole at corners of deck at the rear. Pass tubing trough these holes. Run up and punch a hole on both sides of the foam bulkhead at the top using a drill bit. Push through tubes into dry storage hatch.

Torqeedo 403 Parts:

We will use the majority of the parts included in the Torqeedo Kit. Actually the only parts we will not need are the screw dowels. These are included for kayaks with no reach access to the inside at the ball location. The motor is partially assembled but you will need to remove the steering bracket and the clamp ring reversing them so the steering bracket is on the bottom and the clamp ring is on the top of the pylon. Prior to resembling find the ball placement. Without the pylon the Horizontal shaft, and joint with the pivoting is much lighter and can be lined up easily.

List of Torqeedo 403 Kit Parts:

Torqeedo 403 Install:

Mounting Ball:

Installation of the Torqeedo 403 is fairly simple. It is a ball mounted system so there really is no way to make a mistake except placing the ball too far away. The installation location of the mounting ball can vary on the style of kayak but should be no more than 12″ from the stern of the kayak. Finding the location is simple. From the kit the ball is already loosely locked into the clamp along with the horizontal boom.

Place the ball where it rests the flattest on the right side of the stern. The position will be within 12″ of the transom or the horizontal shaft will be too short. Disassemble the pylon from the pivoting joint. This will make it lighter for ease of aligning. Connect the clamp base & bracket to the ball but do not tighten. Connect the joint to the horizontal shaft. Align where the motor would be centered and snug down the clamp bracket on the ball. Check the location by sliding the pylon into the pivot. Once located mark the spot with a pencil sharpie or a scribe around the edge of the ball flange. Remove the ball from the clamp base & bracket. Place the ball back within the line you have marked. Make sure the support plate is unobstructed inside the kayak from hardware tubing and sharp bends of the hull. Drill the first hole. Insert a Grommet and bolt. Snug down. Drill the next hole on the opposite side. And follow these same steps for the remaining 2 holes.

Re-assemble the pylon and mark the boom where the motor pivot is clamped. Any movement in this area will result in different lengths of steering cabling.

Trim Line Up/Dn & Tubing:

Being right handed the trim line was to be installed in the cockpit on the right side. If you are left-handed  I would recommend installing the trim line on your dominant side. It takes a little muscle to pivot the motor. Running tubing will allow the trim up/dn line to slide freely through the kayak deck to the control position at the seat.

Drill a 1/4″ hole at the stern where the line will penetrate the hull. Run the tubing through, it should fit snug. Using a screw driver punch a hole through the top of the foam bulkhead on the corresponding side of your chosen location. Run tubing through and behind the deck supports up to the steering foot brace location. Using a Small drill bit drill pilot holes along edge of deck. Using a cable tie down and a screw fasten the tubing flush to the deck. In addition clamp two more locations, one being at where the end will be 3″ before the first deck support. This is the location where the Sealect Designs clam JR cleat will be installed.

Using fishing line or the wire rope for this install run it through the tubing and then tape securely the rope. Thread through the tubing and then tying the rope off to the clip provided in the Torqeedo kit.  This is to be attached to the top of the swivel fin.

The clam cleat will lock the trim line position of the motor in the upswing. Install the clam cleat with the teeth facing forward. Drill out the holes in the clam cleat slightly to accept rivets. Drill one hole in Kilroy deck support and rivet in. Be sure the cleat is level and drill the second hole. Now pop rivet and to finish run trim line through hole and tie off the line with the Clam Cleat stop ball.

Trim Lock Line:

Next to install the trim lock line. The overall function of the trim lock line is to lock the motor into the down position. This makes reverse possible preventing the motor from flying up out of the water. However on this install trim lock line has to be installed on the right side also. Although its preferred to run all lines inside the kayak this one seemed to work better on the top. Using another metal clip like the one for the trim line 2 deck pads and a clam cleat tie to the end of the rope. Clip it to the bottom of the swivel fin quick link. Now you will run this on top of the kayak align to the cockpit location. Using the Sealect Designs Deck pads and a clam cleat.

Steering cables:

Using 1/16″ stainless wire rope will allow foot steering control from the Sealect Designs Trucourse Footbrace to the  Torqeedo Steering Bracket. Using bike chain lubricant slide the cable into the tubing from the stern to the bow. Keep adding lubricant on every inch as it slides into the tubing. This will allow the cable to slide freely and keep water out of the tubing.

At the foot braces using the included small hex keys slide through the hole in the pedal to keep them aligned at 90 degrees. Run the cable from the stern through the top metal guide down through the pedal and out the bottom hole then through the cable adjuster. Using the cable clamps make a loop in the end of the cable and tighten.

At the Stern, using the thimble & swadge kit along with a 3/16 carabiner add a 1.5″ piece of marine grade heat shrink tubing on the protruding Cable end. Slide 2 swadges on the cable and snap the thimble over the carabiner eye. Connect the carabiner to the steering bracket on the Torqeedo. Loop the cable around and back through both swadges. Pull tight keeping the motor in the straight steering position and crimp. Clip off the remaining cable end  then slide over the heat shrink tubing and using a heat gun shrink over the swadges.

Torqeedo Throttle mounting VIA Ram Mount:

Using a 1″ Ram Ball will allow you to mount your Torqeedo Throttle Control in many ways. On the back of the controller there are two threaded holes that line up with the diamond backed ball.  Using Metric M4-0.7 x 20mm stainless steel screws which can be found at your local hardware store.

Disclaimer:

Installing hardware may cause damage and/or void manufacturer warranties.  ThePlasticHull.net its authors or any other source of information on this website is in no way responsible for your actions nor any type issues or damage that may occur.  The information provided on this website is a free reference guide only. The authors of all information, sponsors and the owners of the website that host this information are not liable for any problems or issues that arise from the use of this information. Users of this information hereby acknowledge that all use of this information is done by their own free will, at their own sole risk, understanding that destruction of property, injury, or death could occur.