Upon the limitations from testing other keel guard products it was time to search for a better solution to protect my kayak.  A keel guard is to protect the bow and stern of your kayak from damage due to landing, dragging, or loading and unloading. It can also protect against submerged objects such as rocks and oyster bars. Gator Patch Kayak Keel Protection and Repair seemed like a great solution!

Searching for products commonly used on boats I ran across Gator Guards. This company offers a product Gator Patch Kayak Keel Protection. As we all know plastic is a tough material attempting get things to stick permanently. Especially in the case of protection materials that are constantly being scraped across surfaces with the entire weight of the boat on. Gator Patch seems to be a unique material that may hold up to the daily abuse us kayak angler have to throw at it.

About:

Gator Guards an American Company based in Farmington, Illinois offers many diverse products for protecting many different areas of boats. They manufacture products for protection from the keel to the deck of boats. Their products have been effectively protecting boats for over 20 years. All of the products Gator Guards produces are manufactured in the USA. This article focuses on the Gator Patch product.

Gator Patch:

Gator Patch Kayak Keel Protection material is comprised of a UV core fiberglass reinforced polyester. One side has adhesive to apply to the area you would like to protect or repair. The patch will protect flat, curved, dented, angled and, joint areas. It is able to repair damage such as scuffs gouges cracks and also holes. It can be sanded and painted if desired.

Gator patch is available in three different sizes.

• 3 x 4″
• 3″ x 6″
• 9″ x 12″

Gator Patch can be cut to any desired size. Cutting should be done indoors out of UV light. UV light cured the product quickly in sunlight.

Application:

Gator patch is easy to apply.

With a coarse grit sand paper scuff up the area with a crosshatch or X pattern. This will create a better surface for Gator Guard to adhere to. Wipe down with a clean rag and 70% isopropyl rubbing alcohol. Let the area dry.

The 9″ x 12″ size is the best product for a keel guard. You can cut it 3 strips 3″ x 12″.

Cut the Gator Guard to the desired shape and size indoors. To apply the patch simply peel off the white backing to expose the adhesive. Place the Gator Guard on the area of repair or protection. Mold it to the shape by pressing down to remove bumps and air bubbles. You can use a roller tool or a simple 3/4″ socket wrench. Remove the clear film and let stand outdoors exposed to the sunlight or sky on a cloudy day.

Cure times will vary due to geographical locations and weather conditions. The curing process should take a maximum time of up to an hour. If preferred you can then sand and paint the patch or keel guard to match the hull of your kayak!

Review:

I installed a small patch on the keel of my kayak a few weeks ago. The curing process didn’t complete due to my application as the sun was setting. However I went fishing the next morning and the patch was hardened but not completely. The water did not effect the patch at all. It fully cured in the sun on the drive home and is now very rigid. Since then I have dropped and loaded the kayak from my truck 3 times and the guard is a little scuffed but is doing exactly what it was intended to do protecting my kayaks keel!

You may order this product directly from www.gator-guards.com 
Or from amazon.com at the following links!

Gator Patch GP 3″x6″ UV Cure Fiberglass Reinforced Polyester Patch

Gator Patch GP 6″x9″ UV Cure Fiberglass Reinforced Polyester Patch

Gator Patch GP 9″x12″ UV Cure Fiberglass Reinforced Polyester Patch

https://www.gator-guards.com/gator-patch/

The rudder cable on the left foot brace of my Cuda 14 snapped in Cape May. I decided to purchase new cable and parts to replace both sides. This repair is standard for all Jackson Kayak Fishing Kayak models with smart rudder packages installed.

This is a tutorial on how to replace the existing rudder cables with new stainless steel aircraft cable.

Parts needed:

2 Rudder Fork End

2 Clevis Pins

2 Rudder Cable Stop Sleeves

2 Aluminum Swedge (cable crimp)

20 feet of Stainless Steel Rudder Cable

Bike Chain Oil

Shrink Wrap Tubing

All of these parts can be acquired from your local kayak shop or online at http://www.thekayakfishingstore.com/c/Kayak-Rudders.html

Step 1:

To remove the foot track. With a 3/8″ open end wrench and a Philips head screw driver remove the screw behind the foot control track towards the rear of the kayak.

This will allow you to swivel the track upwards and slide the foot pin portion of the foot control track out exposing the cable and the screw it is mounted to. Unscrew where the cable mounts to the track. If the cable is already broken using sheet metal snips or dykes cut the cable so there is no fraying. If not just cut the end metal eye off. Once this is done go to the rudder and slide the cable out of the cable tube. Remove the split ring and the pin holding the existing cable to the rudder. This will detach the existing cable.

Step 2:

Insert the new stainless steel cable into the tubing starting at the foot control. As you slide in the cable inch by inch lube it with a continuous bead of bike chain oil. This will help the cable slide within the tube, keep water out, and hopefully prolong the beginning of any type of corrosion. Once it passes out of the tube at the stern stop feeding after 18″ is exposed.

Step 3:

You will now pass the cable through the opening in the rudder fork then put the cable through the rudder cable stop bullet sleeve. Let about an inch protrude through the sleeve and crimp. If you do not have the aircraft cable stop bullet crimp tool you can use a hammer and a heavy piece of steel to smash it on there with. Then you may cut off the remaining cable end and using the new clevis pin attach to the rudder.

Repeat steps 1 – 3 for the opposite side.

 Step 4:

Attaching the cables to the foot control. Now this is the area where you want to center the rudder and adjust accordingly so everything is perfectly centered. Using the existing screw and nut on the foot brace add 2 washers to hold the cable loop. Slide on the swedge and a 3 inch piece of heat shrunk tubing on the steering cable.  Set the loop of the new cable between the washers and and tighten the nut. The washers will compress the cable and lock it into place. Crimp the swedge with flat pliers locking the cable into place close to the connection of the foot brace. Once complete slide the heat shrink tubing over the cable and clip the tag end back leaving an inch of cable. Now use a heat gun the shrink the tubing over the swedge, the tag end, and the leading end of the cable to protect it from hanging up on anything.

Video to follow soon.