Installing electronics on a kayak can bring on many challenges. One of the major challenges are how to wire through the kayaks bulkhead and what products are manufactured to cap large drilled holes post wiring the fish finder. This article covers common Types of Hull Pass-Throughs.

After a lot of research here are a few types of hull pass-through caps for wiring electronics on your kayak.

Rubber Stopper 1/4″ – 1.5″ Drill

Commonly used for drain plugs and scupper holes the Rubber stopper can also be used for Thru Hull Wiring. Simply with a sharp box cutter cut a slit from the outer diameter to the center hole. This will allow you to pass the wire into the center of the stopper. Runt he connecting plug through the hole and simply press the stopper in small diameter of the flange first to make a seal. This method works but is not recommended for a permanent install. The stopper over time can come loose so check it every now and then. It wouldn’t hurt to silicone them in.

Cable Gland 1/4″ – 1″ Drill

The cable gland is a wiring connector that is able to match wire diameters with a grommet that seals tightening down a lock nut.

On the bottom of the gland is a threaded portion that is able to pass through a drilled hole in the hull and tightened down with an included ring nut. Cable glands do work great but the only problem i see with them is the protrusion they create. They are easily snagged by fishing line. In areas that fishing line will not snag they are great.

Cable Clam pass through 1″ – 2″ Drill

Cable clams are a good solution but protrude the most. They require 4 large screws holes perfectly aligned. Personally I think they are the most unsightly for applying on a kayak. They are purposed more for boats. They are also the most expensive and hardest to install.

TH Marine CeaCap 3/4″ Drill

The CeaCap is the most flush option but will only work with cable plugs that will pass through a 3/4″ hole. It is threaded and will turn the wire 90 degrees so it is flush with the hull. IT will allow for two 12 gauge wires to pass through.

West Marine Wire Cap 1″  Drill

The best out of them all I have found for large connectors is the West Marine Wire Cap. Fish finder connectors with 1″ diameter will work with this cap to cover the required hole to pass through the wire for both the transducer and the power. You may run two wires at 14 gauge through this cap max and 1 wire at 8 gauge id say max.

Understanding Kayak Rigging – Mounting Base Options

Mounting bases are an essential part of rigging and personalizing your fishing kayak for your needs. A mounting base is typically and after market install for adding mounts for rod holders, fish finders, and other personalized accessory’s.  In this article ThePlasticHull.net covers basic and typical mounting hardware and bases along with track systems.

Fasteners:

There are 4 main types of fasteners typically used for rigging plastic kayaks.  They are as follows.

1. Thru Bolt: (Best Mounting Solution. This includes metal backing plates used in track system mounting.)
2. Rivets: (Second to the best method)
3. Well Nut & Bolt (Typically used with no inside access)
4. Self tapping screw (Has its uses)
5.  Factory molded threaded inserts (Becoming more common. Standard on Jackson fishing Kayaks)

Accessory Bases:

These fastening methods are used to install a mounting base. Depending on the accessory there are choices on base options. For a long time mounting a spline base or a flush mount spline base was the best method of installing rod holders and safety flags. With the evolution of kayak fishing and innovative accessory companies like Ram Mount,s Scotty, and Yak Attack new mounting options have been invented. To cover a few of the main mount base options.

1. Scotty base
2. RAM Ball Base
3. Rail Blaza Deck Mount Base

Gear Tracks:

The most widely used deck mounting solutions in recent time are track mount bases. Track mounting works just like track lighting. Simply by turning the accessory it can be located and secured in any location on the track desired.  I believe Wilderness Systems were the first to incorporate track mount systems into their fishing line of kayaks. Luther Cyphers of Yak Attack developed first the mighty mount which accepted a T style bolt that also is compatible with a track system.  Later he developed the gear track. The gear track really made rigging possibility’s endless. Also created the ability to slide accessory’s to different positions on the fly.  For paddlers the ability to move rod holders out of your paddle sweep on the fly.

In recent time many other fishing kayak manufacturers are incorporating the Yak Attack Gear track or similar track system into their fishing line of kayaks. Along with the tracks came “T Bolt Accessory’s” . The Screw ball was one of the first solutions for mounting accessory’s to the tracks. The ability to have a RAM Mount accessory on a sliding track made options endless. From mounting Rod Holders to Fish finders and camera mounts.

Scotty and RAM Mount spline bases can be adapted to work with track systems by utilizing the Yak Attack MightyMount Post Mount kit. Check it out here!

For 2015 Yak Attack has done it again with a new innovative track system that enables mounting accessory’s from any point on the track. No more sliding from one end to another. Mount between already mounted accessory’s! This is going to make it easy!

For more information on GearTrack Mounting Hardware go to YakAttack.us!

Disclaimer:

Installing hardware may cause damage and/or void manufacturer warranties.  ThePlasticHull.net its authors or any other source of information on this website is in no way responsible for your actions nor any type issues or damage that may occur.  The information provided on this website is a free reference guide only. The authors of all information, sponsors and the owners of the website that host this information are not liable for any problems or issues that arise from the use of this information. Users of this information hereby acknowledge that all use of this information is done by their own free will, at their own sole risk, understanding that destruction of property, injury, or death could occur.

This is not a kit install but a custom anchor trolley.   I wanted it to be unique.

Things you will need

• 2 Pulleys Stainless Steel
• 1/8″ bungee – Color of choice
• at least 30 feet of reflective 5/32″ poly rope
• 2 Deck Loops
• 4 Nuts bolts and rubber washers.
• 2″ Nylon Ring

(Below Not Photoed)

• Galvanized Hog Rings
• Heat Shrink Tubing

Tools

• Drill
• Torch or Bic Lighter
• Pocket Knife
• Philips screw Driver
• 3/8″ Socket
• 1/4″ Drive Socket Wrench
• Pliers

What is an Anchor Trolley and why is it needed?

Access the bow or stern is basically impossible unless you were to get off the kayak and swim there. Simply using a block and loop conveyor system aka Anchor Trolley. An anchor trolley is basically a clothing line that is used to shift the point of your anchoring from cockpit to both bow and stern. An anchor trolley can be installed on either side of the kayak or both. Its all about how you the angler would prefer to use the system.

Now to install your anchor trolley. First you will cut (2) 8″ lengths of the 1/8″ bungee. Use the Torch or Bic lighter to fuse the Nylon sheath around the rubber bungee chords. This will ensure the bungee will not fall apart.

Now you will insert each bungee into the eye of the block and tie both ends together with a knot.

Once this is done its time to locate the Pad Eyes or the attachment location to the kayak. Approx 12″ from tip of bow and stern. Drill the upper hole first and thread the bolt in to hold the pad eye in place. Angle the pad eye away from the bow on a 45 degree angle but make sure it is flat to the boat. Drill the second hole and thread in. Using the washer with the rubber on the inside make sure that faces the inside of the hull. Snug the nut down tight enough where its not going to move. Repeat the same for the stern. Once the pad eyes are installed connect the blocks to each one.

Using the poly reflective rope and run it through the bow block first bottom to top and back to the stern block top to bottom. With the tag end of the rope slide on a piece of heat shrink tubing then loop it through the Nylon ring leaving about 3″ excess crimp two Hog Rings as close to the nylon ring as possible around the tag end and the main line of the poly rope making the loop permanent around the nylon ring. Cut the tag end of the rope back 1/2″ before the Hog Ring. You will now slide the heat shrink tubing over the tag end and the hog rings. Using a heat gun shrink the tubing but take caution not to burn the poly rope nylon ring or heat shrink.

now pull rope from spool end to the nylon ring and add 12″ and cut. Burn end of the rope and run the new tag end through the ring. Snug up the trolley and using 5 half hitches tie the line. Using half hitches will make the trolley adjustable in the future as the rope gets wet it may stretch. Simply un-tie and re-tie snug again.

You have now successfully installed an anchor trolley on your Jackson Cuda 14!

Disclaimer:

Installing hardware may cause damage and/or void manufacturer warranties.  ThePlasticHull.net its authors or any other source of information on this website is in no way responsible for your actions nor any type issues or damage that may occur.  The information provided on this website is a free reference guide only. The authors of all information, sponsors and the owners of the website that host this information are not liable for any problems or issues that arise from the use of this information. Users of this information hereby acknowledge that all use of this information is done by their own free will, at their own sole risk, understanding that destruction of property, injury, or death could occur.