Sea-Lect Designs a kayak rigging hardware manufacturer has stepped into the kayak fishing game with their new Triple Threat Rod & Reel Holder. This high quality design has a ton of thought into its production. The rod holder is  reasonably priced and designed to carry all three different fishing reel types. Spinning, Bait casting, and yes Fly!

First Impressions

The packaging is unique as it allows potential customers to operate most of the rod holders features. The retention collar and rear gimbal are fully functional. The packaging also details how the user can adjust the Triple Threat rod holder. It also displays the different reel types seated.

Features

The base connection

Currently the flush mount is only available. Alternatively a track mount kit is sold separately. It works fine and is plenty strong. The track mount base is expected to ship in the fall of 2018.

The base connection is a spline type which enables the rod holder to pivot 360 degrees and to be detached. The Triple Threat is easily lifted from the base. Once lifted can be rotated to the desired position, Simply press back down to lock in place.

Pivot knob

The adjustments of this rod holder are very one hand operation friendly. To pivot the rod holder twist the adjustment knob a quarter. You may now pivot rod holder to your desired angle. To set the adjustment you simply twist quarter in the opposite direction. The pivot point allows 6 points of adjustment with 45 degrees of oscillation.

Retention Collar

The retention collars function is exactly the name. Twist to open and twist to lock the rod in place. The collar functions like most rod holders on the market except has an added lever for one handed operation.

Rear Gimbal

The rear gimbal is unique as it pivots to a 90 degree position to stop the butt of the rod from sliding through. With the retention collar closed simply place the fishing rod through the collar and rest the butt on the gimbal and the rod holder is now converted to a fast action tube style.

Leash Points

The rod holder features three total leash points in the flush mount and recessed mount setup. Leashing to the base is best in case the rod holder is not secured properly as has happened in the past with track ball mounted rod holders loosening and becoming lost.

My observations of the Triple Threat Rod Holder

The Sea-lect Designs Triple Threat Rod Holder is best used as a front rod holder until an extension is available. This rod holder appears to be a great setup for trolling and dead sticking. The unique Gimbal Transforms the rod holder into a tube style with the collar locked. This rod holder has one handed operation in mind. Everything on the rod holder can be adjusted with one hand. Kayak anglers know the advantages of the ease of operation on their gear and accessories.

MSRP & Country of Origin Comparison of popular kayak fishing rod holders (Flush Mount)

Sea-Lect Designs Triple Threat Rod Holder – US – 25.99

RAM ROD 2007 – US – 24.99

RAM TUBE 2008 – US – 32.99

RAM TUBE JR. – US – 24.49

Rail Blaza Rod Holder II – AU – 24.99

Yak Attack Omega (GearTrack Mount) – US – 40.00

Check it out on Sealectdesigns.com and ask your local Sea-Lect Designs retailer about it!

http://www.sealectdesigns.com/groups/1982-triple-threat-rod-holder-surface-mount

This How To article focuses on a Hybrid style Sit Inside Kayak Torqeedo 403 install. A sit inside kayak creates more challenges for running steering cables and the use of different hardware types such as neoprene washers for thru hull hardware waterproofing. Additionally sit inside kayaks use bulkheads for creating dry storage hatches. Unlike most sit on top kayaks from Jackson Kayak Sit in kayaks like the Kilroy are not rudder ready. Therefore must be fitted for steering.

This install was completed using a 2017 Jackson Kayak Kilroy LT a Hybrid style sit in. The Kilroy LT is manufactured using the thermoform process. This manufacturing process creates a thinner lightweight hull by utilizing acrylic coated ABS plastic material. It results in a kayak 1/3 less weight of its rotomolded cousin.

Tools Needed:

Materials & Products Used:

Replacing the stock footbraces with Sealect Design Tru-Course Footbraces for steering is pretty simple. The Jackson Kayak Kilroy LT has a sub flooring system or deck installed. The Stock footbraces were bolted to the deck prior to riveting to the hull. There are 2 options here.

Option 1:

Is a very time consuming option requires to drill out all 12 rivets that mount the deck to the hull. Remove the deck and replace the foot braces. Then re-insert the deck and rivet 12 and hope it holds in place as well as from the factory. (I did not do this!)

Option 2:

Simple but precise. Rout out 4 access holes in the top of the deck at each bolt end. Start by center punching and drilling a pilot hole. Your local hardware store should carry grommet caps. I used 7/8″ caps to plug the access holes. Place the cap on the area of the future access hole. Using a scribe mark the limits of the cap. Using a Dremel with rotary file rout out to the inscribed limits. Placing the cap make round until cap fits snugly.

Remove stock foot braces with 3/8″ open end wrench on nut and Philips head screwdriver or drill driver. Sealect Designs foot brace remove neoprene washer. Screw will go from inside to outside. Place 7/8″ nut and washer on end and tighten with drill driver. Place caps in access holes.

Steering Cable Tubing:

The Kilroy LT install is unique in this situation. Taking advantage of the deck hiding and threading the cable tubing is much easier. On a normal SOT you would have to run it under the cockpit edge.

Starting at the foot braces drill a hole in the support directly behind. Run tubing through towards rear. Center punch and drill hole at corners of deck at the rear. Pass tubing trough these holes. Run up and punch a hole on both sides of the foam bulkhead at the top using a drill bit. Push through tubes into dry storage hatch.

Torqeedo 403 Parts:

We will use the majority of the parts included in the Torqeedo Kit. Actually the only parts we will not need are the screw dowels. These are included for kayaks with no reach access to the inside at the ball location. The motor is partially assembled but you will need to remove the steering bracket and the clamp ring reversing them so the steering bracket is on the bottom and the clamp ring is on the top of the pylon. Prior to resembling find the ball placement. Without the pylon the Horizontal shaft, and joint with the pivoting is much lighter and can be lined up easily.

List of Torqeedo 403 Kit Parts:

Torqeedo 403 Install:

Mounting Ball:

Installation of the Torqeedo 403 is fairly simple. It is a ball mounted system so there really is no way to make a mistake except placing the ball too far away. The installation location of the mounting ball can vary on the style of kayak but should be no more than 12″ from the stern of the kayak. Finding the location is simple. From the kit the ball is already loosely locked into the clamp along with the horizontal boom.

Place the ball where it rests the flattest on the right side of the stern. The position will be within 12″ of the transom or the horizontal shaft will be too short. Disassemble the pylon from the pivoting joint. This will make it lighter for ease of aligning. Connect the clamp base & bracket to the ball but do not tighten. Connect the joint to the horizontal shaft. Align where the motor would be centered and snug down the clamp bracket on the ball. Check the location by sliding the pylon into the pivot. Once located mark the spot with a pencil sharpie or a scribe around the edge of the ball flange. Remove the ball from the clamp base & bracket. Place the ball back within the line you have marked. Make sure the support plate is unobstructed inside the kayak from hardware tubing and sharp bends of the hull. Drill the first hole. Insert a Grommet and bolt. Snug down. Drill the next hole on the opposite side. And follow these same steps for the remaining 2 holes.

Re-assemble the pylon and mark the boom where the motor pivot is clamped. Any movement in this area will result in different lengths of steering cabling.

Trim Line Up/Dn & Tubing:

Being right handed the trim line was to be installed in the cockpit on the right side. If you are left-handed  I would recommend installing the trim line on your dominant side. It takes a little muscle to pivot the motor. Running tubing will allow the trim up/dn line to slide freely through the kayak deck to the control position at the seat.

Drill a 1/4″ hole at the stern where the line will penetrate the hull. Run the tubing through, it should fit snug. Using a screw driver punch a hole through the top of the foam bulkhead on the corresponding side of your chosen location. Run tubing through and behind the deck supports up to the steering foot brace location. Using a Small drill bit drill pilot holes along edge of deck. Using a cable tie down and a screw fasten the tubing flush to the deck. In addition clamp two more locations, one being at where the end will be 3″ before the first deck support. This is the location where the Sealect Designs clam JR cleat will be installed.

Using fishing line or the wire rope for this install run it through the tubing and then tape securely the rope. Thread through the tubing and then tying the rope off to the clip provided in the Torqeedo kit.  This is to be attached to the top of the swivel fin.

The clam cleat will lock the trim line position of the motor in the upswing. Install the clam cleat with the teeth facing forward. Drill out the holes in the clam cleat slightly to accept rivets. Drill one hole in Kilroy deck support and rivet in. Be sure the cleat is level and drill the second hole. Now pop rivet and to finish run trim line through hole and tie off the line with the Clam Cleat stop ball.

Trim Lock Line:

Next to install the trim lock line. The overall function of the trim lock line is to lock the motor into the down position. This makes reverse possible preventing the motor from flying up out of the water. However on this install trim lock line has to be installed on the right side also. Although its preferred to run all lines inside the kayak this one seemed to work better on the top. Using another metal clip like the one for the trim line 2 deck pads and a clam cleat tie to the end of the rope. Clip it to the bottom of the swivel fin quick link. Now you will run this on top of the kayak align to the cockpit location. Using the Sealect Designs Deck pads and a clam cleat.

Steering cables:

Using 1/16″ stainless wire rope will allow foot steering control from the Sealect Designs Trucourse Footbrace to the  Torqeedo Steering Bracket. Using bike chain lubricant slide the cable into the tubing from the stern to the bow. Keep adding lubricant on every inch as it slides into the tubing. This will allow the cable to slide freely and keep water out of the tubing.

At the foot braces using the included small hex keys slide through the hole in the pedal to keep them aligned at 90 degrees. Run the cable from the stern through the top metal guide down through the pedal and out the bottom hole then through the cable adjuster. Using the cable clamps make a loop in the end of the cable and tighten.

At the Stern, using the thimble & swadge kit along with a 3/16 carabiner add a 1.5″ piece of marine grade heat shrink tubing on the protruding Cable end. Slide 2 swadges on the cable and snap the thimble over the carabiner eye. Connect the carabiner to the steering bracket on the Torqeedo. Loop the cable around and back through both swadges. Pull tight keeping the motor in the straight steering position and crimp. Clip off the remaining cable end  then slide over the heat shrink tubing and using a heat gun shrink over the swadges.

Torqeedo Throttle mounting VIA Ram Mount:

Using a 1″ Ram Ball will allow you to mount your Torqeedo Throttle Control in many ways. On the back of the controller there are two threaded holes that line up with the diamond backed ball.  Using Metric M4-0.7 x 20mm stainless steel screws which can be found at your local hardware store.

Disclaimer:

Installing hardware may cause damage and/or void manufacturer warranties.  ThePlasticHull.net its authors or any other source of information on this website is in no way responsible for your actions nor any type issues or damage that may occur.  The information provided on this website is a free reference guide only. The authors of all information, sponsors and the owners of the website that host this information are not liable for any problems or issues that arise from the use of this information. Users of this information hereby acknowledge that all use of this information is done by their own free will, at their own sole risk, understanding that destruction of property, injury, or death could occur.

Keeping it clear!

Bringing your new fishing kayak home is always an exciting time. Many new owners purchase accessories to add to their kayak immediately. So why paddle prior to rigging your new fishing kayak? Fishing from a small platform it is very important to place everything you will use in reach but not to interfere with other things. The main function of the kayak is the paddling stroke for propulsion. There is an area of the kayak that you will stroke and sweep. Any obstructions within the path pf the paddle will limit your paddle stroke and hence limit your speed and range of motion. Understanding the range of your stroke and sweep is very important for rod holder, camera mount, and fish finder mounting locations.

Learn how to properly paddle:

There are many resources online that can teach you a solid paddling technique. Along with the paddle strokes necessary for propelling your fishing kayak. Youtube is a great place to start. Everything is on there. A great website for learning how to paddle is www.paddling.com. Its in the website address! Although geared towards touring and sea kayaking there is plenty education us kayak anglers can benefit from there. Also if you have the time please do take an ACA accredited paddling course.

Fallen and cant get back on:

Remember kayaking is a dangerous sport. Being afloat on a very small narrow boat there is always a risk of capsizing. This is a great time to feel out your new fishing kayak. Lean on it feel where it may capsize. Then once you find that point practice a self rescue. Its great to do this with no rigging and gear for the first time. Practice is always good and can also give you an idea of where you may not want to mount an accessory due to it being in the way when trying to climb back onto your kayak. Also remember its smart to always wear your Personal Flotation Device (PFD).

Reaching can be dangerous:

Equally important as obstructions is learning and knowing your reach limitations. The hardest location to reach to is behind you. In most cases reaching behind you can make you become unstable due to the natural tendency to lean. A ground rule to remember is where your head goes the kayak follows. Its good to know your reach for control of the fish finder and the ability to grab rods from the rod holders quickly. Also many anglers use a milk crate system behind them for tackle storage as this is the original way of stowing gear it is not needed anymore due to the development of fishing style kayaks and their ample storage. Reach behind you and try different configurations.

Learning The Seat:

Some later fishing kayak models enable the ability to adjust the seat forward and aft. Remember, if you are going to be trimming out the kayak it will adjust the location of your paddle stroke and sweep. It is good not to install accessory’s that may impede this area. Gear Track mounting comes into play here as the accessory is now able to be re-positioned easily. Keep in mind that if your kayak has a high/low position seat this will change your paddle stroke. Its good to paddle from every position possible.

Track Mounting:

Track mounting has basically become an essential need for mounting accessories to your kayak. Enabling the ability to mount many different accessories for different locations, fishing types, and even kayak uses. Think if a track light. Gear tracks work the same way with the accessory having a T bolt on the end can be tightened down on any portion of the track.

Anchor Trolley:

An anchor trolley system operates like a clothes line. Utilizing 2 pulleys and a ring the system allows you to move your anchoring point from the seating position. The anchor can now be positioned to the bow or stern of the kayak. Paddling and fishing from your new kayak is important prior to installing an anchor trolley.  Dince most likely you will be drilling and thru-bolting its a great to get an idea which side you would like to anchor from. Personally my anchor trolleys are installed on the right side of the boat. Being right handed and fishing conventional gear mostly I tend to retrieve my rod pointing towards my left side.

Industry Accomplishments:

Many leading fishing kayak manufacturers are now designing boats with integrated recessed track systems. This creates the ability to trade out accessories and relocate them on the fly. However if you own a kayak or want to purchase one that does not have factory tracks you can always add them aftermarket. YakAttack a leading industry kayak fishing accessory company has a few different track system options available. They also offer a wide range of accessories that mount to the track system.

Molded inserts have become standard. Jackson Kayak started molding in brass threaded inserts in 2014 in accordance for mounting a GoPro mount and a Ram Mounts screw ball. These set points are great locations for just about any accessory you can think of. Also the locations being well thought out typically will not interfere with your paddle stroke.

Summary:

Please remember first paddle before installing accessories or you may find everything you just bolted drilled screwed and mounted to your kayak is out of reach or in the way.