How To: Upgrade Steering on the Big Rig

This particular install replaces the Jackson Factory installed Smart Track foot brace steering system. This article explains how to upgrade the steering on the Big Rig utilizing the Sea-lect Designs Toe Pilot foot braces. Using The Toe Pilot system you will simply angle the pedals like you would press a gas or brake pedal on a car to steer the rudder or electric motor. This eliminates the entire track sliding and one knee bent and one straight. Your entire day of fishing will be much more comfortable after this upgrade!

Illustrated in the video this upgrade is a semi advanced install but not an extremely difficult one. This upgrade will also work with the big rig stock Tru-Course rudder. This install conforms to the Torqeedo Ultralight 403 motor steering.

If your big rig does not have a steering kit factory installed Sea-lect Designs does manufacture a full Thru Hull Tru Course Rudder Kit which includes the toe pilot foot braces. The additional part if the install will be running the rudder cable tubing through the kayak.

Video of the install!

This article is the install breakdown and How To.

Tools Needed for full install:

• 3/8″ socket
• 1/4″ Ratchet
• 3/8″ Open end box wrench
• Short Philips head screwdriver
• Hex Key Set
• Pry Tool
• Drill
• Drill Bits
• Diagonal Wire Cutters
• Needle Nose Pliers
• Heat Gun
• Razor Blade

Parts & Materials Needed:

• Sea-Lect Designs Toe Pilot Foot Braces K747205-1
• Sea-Lect Designs Cable Adjusters K747260-1
• 30 feet of stainless steel rudder cable
• Heat Shrink Tubing
• 8 Swedges or Cable Crimps
• Lexel or Marine Goop
• 2 9″ Lengths of 3/16″ Bungee Chord
• #10 x 24 1 1/4″ Long Philips head bolt (Hardware Store)
• #10 Washer (Hardware Store)

For Torqeedo Setup:

• 3/16″ Carabeners with eye

Install Instructions:

Removing Existing Smart track System Foot Braces Start with the front bolt. Using a 3/8″ socket with a 1/4″ drive and a Short Philips head screw drive remove the thru hull nut and bolt . Slide the foot brace forward to reveal the rear screw. Now remove the it with a Philips head screw driver. Slide off the back plate and now remove the cable from the foot brace using the 3/8″ socket. Cut the terminal connector from the end of the cable and remove the cable from the stern leaving the tubing in place.

Now you will need to remove the rivet that holds the cable tubing in place as it is int he area of where the new track will be installed. Using a drill bit drill out the center of the rivet until the flange falls off. The back portion of the rivet will fall inside the hull. Patch this hole using a plastic weld or Lexel caulk adhesive.Now using the #10 X 24 – 1 1/4″ bolt and #10 washer dab a drop of thread lock then fasten the left track to the right side of the kayak to the threaded insert. This will allow you to align the track and drill the new front hole. Once the hole is drilled using the #10 x 24 – 1″ bolt washer and nut fasten securely to the kayak.  The tracks have to be installed upside down in order to reuse the threaded insert. If you would like to mount the tracks the intended way you will need a rigging bullet as it is impossible to reach the rear area of the track to fasten with a thru bolt.

Now once the track is installed repeat the same steps on  the opposite side.

To run the cable.

Run the cable through the cable adjuster first then under the pedal is a hole run through the hole front to back then wrap it around in the groove then through the metal adjuster pulley at the top and then back to the rudder cable tubing which you will then run the cable through to the stern of the kayak. The cable wraps around the toe pilot like an ‘S’ pattern shape.

Once at the stern you will now connect the cable to your factory installed Tru-Course Rudder or in this cast to the Torqeedo steering bracket. Make sure the rudder or motor is centered at the same time the Toe Pilot pedal should be at 90 degrees to the kayak deck. This is to be center for both sides.

Now terminate the end at the cable adjuster by looping the cable through (2) swedges and crimping. Remove the tag end of cable using the diagonal wire cutters. Slide heat shrink tubing over and heat to protect the cut end and the swedges.

Refer to the image above for completed install.

Disclaimer:

Installing hardware may cause damage and/or void manufacturer warranties.  ThePlasticHull.net its authors or any other source of information on this website is in no way responsible for your actions nor any type issues or damage that may occur.  The information provided on this website is a free reference guide only. The authors of all information, sponsors and the owners of the website that host this information are not liable for any problems or issues that arise from the use of this information. Users of this information hereby acknowledge that all use of this information is done by their own free will, at their own sole risk, understanding that destruction of property, injury, or death could occur.

If your in the market for a spare Torqeedo battery you may want to consider purchasing the Travel 1003 S/L battery. The battery is a little larger but packs 200 more watt hours. This means more distance for you. Designed for the 3HP 1003 Travel electric outboard motor the battery is also compatible with the Ultralight 403 system.

As the 1003 S/L battery is still very light at 9.9 lbs it only weighs 3.5 lbs more than the Ultralight 403 battery. It does not require any additional adapters or cables as all of the existing Ultralight 403 throttle, cables, and charging devices are compatible with it.

Similar to the Torqeedo Ultralight 403 the  Travel 1003 battery has the integrated GPS for your remote throttle readouts and will be compatible with the Torq Trac app for smartphones.

The chart below shows the comparison between the included 403 battery and the spare 1003 battery.

Now for the real question. How much more does the larger battery cost? The Travel 1003 MSRP is $699.00. The Ultralight 403 MSRP is $599.00. For the $100 difference the performance is worth it.

One feature the Travel battery does not have is the auto shut off when inverted. This should not be a problem if you are clipped into the magnetic key. If you fall out of your kayak or flip the motor will shut off anyway.

Although the housing and size is a little larger the battery still fits inside the Jackson Big Rig’s rear hatch.

This past weekend I tested my new Travel battery. The first thing that became apparent to me was that the length of time the display read 100% charge compared to with the Ultralight battery. Granted the battery is brand new.  I was able to fish over 5.5 hours basically full throttling all day between drifts. At the end of the day i had well over 47% of battery left. Typically on the 403 battery i would have had around 20% left.

I will attempt to compare more of the usage between the two  in a future post.

Please visit http://www.torqeedo.com/us/technology for more information.

A few new modifications to the Torqeedo steering system.  First of all I purchased an aftermarket anodized aluminum steering bracket which is sold by The Kayak Fishing Store. It was fabricated to replace the stock plastic bracket. There has been issues with the stock bracket breaking when under stress of steering and torque from the motor. The aluminum bracket is much more rigid being made out of metal and most likely will last a life time if properly cared for.

The next upgrade is a stainless steel quick release 3/16″ closed eye spring clip for the steering cables that connect to the steering bracket. This clip enables the attach and detaching of the steering bracket in seconds instead of the previous setup using the pin and split ring.

This modification was easy. Simply take the existing cable ends off by removing the cotter pin and slide the cable out. You will now clamp down the foot brace track so it is aligned with the track (centered). Clip the new spring clip to the steering bracket on the Torqeedo. Slide a 3 inch piece of 1/4″ heat shrink tubing on the cable. Then feed the end of the cable through one side of the cable crimp. You will now feed the cable through the eye on the clip and back through the other side of the crimp. Center the motor and slide the crimp up so there is around 3/8″ – 1/2″ diameter loop. make sure the cable is tight going to the foot brace. Crimp with a pair of heavy duty pliers and repeat the same steps for the opposite side.

Once this step is completed it should look like Figure A below.

Figure B above illustrates the completed modification with the heat shrink tubing.

The links below will direct you to the parts.

Steering Bracket

Spring Clips

Quick Link

There will be other modifications in the future. Please check back to The Plastic Hull for mods and subscribe for instant emails on new posts.