Waterproof Kayak Battery Box Mods & Upgrades

This article illustrates how to modify and wire a 12V plug port and a USB receptacle for charging electronic devices such as cell phones and running GoPro’s with out an internal battery for an all day charge. Using the existing waterproof battery box from a previous article we will first replace the 12V 12 aH Sealed Lead Acid (SLA) Battery. See SLA or LFP Accessory Battery for your Kayak write up for the differences in batteries and pros/cons of both. I have opted to now use a LFP battery for its long list of great qualities.

Products & materials you will need.

• About two feet each red & black of 16ga shielded copper electrical wire
• (10) Spade Connectors (Blue 14 – 16ga)
• (1) 3 Way Female Double Male Spade Connector
• (2) Inline Fuse Holder w/ 16ga wire
• (2) 3 – 5 amp fuses (Most fish finder electronics recommend 3 amp)
• (1) 12V Marine Power Outlet
• (1) 12V Double USB Receptacle
• (1) Hopkins 2 pole plug (For Fish Finder Connection)
• (1) On Off Switch (I used a stainless steel product to last with the salt water)
• (3) Butt Connectors

Wiring Diagram 8X11

Instructions:

• First thing you will do is remove the existing battery and all of the wiring in the box. We are going to replace everything inside. Keep the cable gland as it will be reused.
• Using a hole saw drill match up the diameter to the outside of the hole saw with the two receptacles. Try to keep the holes even and equal distance apart for aesthetic reasons. After drilling the holes trim the excess from the edge of the holes. Set the receptacles and tighten the collar down.
• Drill a hole using a hole saw that matches the diameter of the switch in your desired location. Make sure the internal protrusion will not interfere with the battery or the 12V receptacles. Install the switch.
• Now we will splice 2 wires together to connect the negative side and the positive sides of the receptacles together. Make one for each RED and BLACK.
• Connect the spade connectors to the correct terminals on the receptacles + with + and – with -.

• Using a butt connector connect the RED + wire from the Fish Finder Plug to one inline fuse.
• Using the 3 Way Female to 2 Male connector connect the Two Inline Fuses to the Male ends and the White 12V Positive from the switch with a male spade to the female end on the 3 way its good to tape this connection with electrical tape or purchase a insulated connector.
• Connect the Red + wire from the switch using a female spade connector to the battery.
• Connect the BLACK – wires by crimping on a female spade connector from the 12V receptacles, the 12V Fish Finder connection and the black wire from the switch together. Simply twist the (3) wires together feed into the hole on the connector and crimp using the crimping tool.
• Then Connect the Female Spade with the (3) black wires to the – Negative side of the battery.

Upon Completion:

Test by pressing the switch to the ON position. The LED Indicator should light up. Test all receptacles and that the fish finder powers up. You now have a portable waterproof kayak battery box with the option to run additional lighting on your kayak, Charge electronics, and run cameras VIA USB power.

This concludes the Kayak Battery Box modifications & Upgrades article. Please leave comments on your thoughts!

This new Electronics Battery Box will accommodate a large 12v 12Ah sealed battery.  Before drilling holes in a dry box make sure your box will fit through the hatch on your kayak.

Dimensions of the battery

Length 5.94 inches

Width 3.86 inches

Height 3.74 inches

Weight 7.95 lbs

You can find these batteries new on ebay for $20 – $30. The higher amp hour is good for running fish finder chart plotter combos with color screens. These use a higher amount of amps than the black & white units the 7.5 Ah batteries just don’t perform as well for a full day of fishing.

List of Materials:

• 1 Battery as mentioned above $23.00 ebay
• 1 Dry box that will accommodate the size of the battery $23.00 ebay
• 1 Small Cable Gland $1.00
• 1  Wire with inline waterproof connector (4 wire 4 pin) Possible future lighting or other accessories $4.80 Amazon
• 2 inline heat shrink inline wire crimp connectors
• 1 3″ piece of adhesive 1/2″ heat shrink tubing

Tools:

• Drill
• Heat Gun
• Wire Crimps/Strippers
• Drill bits/ Step Drill Bit

Install: 

Using pipe insulation fit the battery to the box. This will hold the battery in place so it doesn’t bounce around. Next drill a pilot hole using a 1/8″ drill bit. This will be the location of the cable penetration. You can pick pretty much any side. I would say avoid the top the bottom and the back. In this install I opted for the front under the handle. Once the pilot hole is drilled use the step drill bit to ream out the hole until the cable gland will thread in.

Once the cable gland is installed slide the cable with the connector through from the exterior. You will now pick 2 wires from the 4 to pair.  Use the two inline heat shrink connectors Crimp and heat the one side to seal. Now slide over the 3 inch piece of adhesive heat shrink tube. Connect the inline fuse wire and the ground wire. Attach the terminal ends and your DIY waterproof electronics battery box is complete.

Waterproof Battery Box Modifications & Upgrades <— Click for updated post!!!!

Creating a semi-permanent install for multiple kayaks is a challenge. Since most of us fish on a budget two separate fish finder units is not feasible. For about 1/4 the price of a new Lowrance Elite 5 HDI unit you may purchase a new Transducer, Power cable, and the neat Lowrance kayak scupper mount kit. This application is only for sit on top kayaks like the Big Rig with round scupper holes. The mount and this particular transducer as of 2014 other Jackson Kayak Models will not work due to the oval scupper shape and being that the bottom of the supper is simply not wide enough to accept the transducer mounted flush.

In the photo to the left shown is the un-boxed scupper mount and the transducer and cable. This transducer has been a challenge to mount to other kayaks until the Big Rig with its enlarged hull scupper clearance as it is Raymarine ready.

To install simply using the bolt washers mount to the bottom of the scupper mount as you would the transom mount. Once this is completed pull the plug end of the transducer wire from the bottom of the scupper through towards the deck. Once all of the cable is pulled then insert the threaded plastic into the scupper. The transducer should face bolted end/cable to the bow. Then slide the gray fitting down the threaded shaft and tighten the thumb nut all the way down until snug. Once fit you may cut the shaft and place the Lowrance cap on top. Done!!

This is the best way to install any transducer out there. You get accurate temperature readings and a completely better signal for clarity rather than the shoot thru hull option.

I prefer to hide all of my wires and cables within the hull of the kayak. Just less mess less things to snag your hooks on and the best way to protect expensive electronics cables. Due to the 1″ diameter colors on the Lowrance HDI plugs we need to drill a 1″ hole to get these cables inside the hull. Now that’s a huge hole. It took a while to find a part to seal this with for a really clean install. I’m not the type that likes to run cables through hatches. West Marine makes a hull pass through that worked perfectly for this application. I have never seen these used on a kayak before but they are excellent. Low profile watertight and clean!

To start use a 1″ boring drill bit. The hull pass through fitting includes a rubber grommet. I used this as a template placing it exactly where the fitting would be placed. Marked the center with a punch and drilled. See drilled hole to the right. Run sonar plug through and using the thru hull cap press firmly with a screwdriver and screws will self tap. The rubber will push out and this when it is tight. Do not over tighten as the screws will strip out the plastic therefore becoming loose.

Do the same steps for the opposite side but this time with the power wire and the transducer plug through 1 hole. This one bring the sonar plug through the hole first. Then snake through from the outside the power wire. The power wire will be then run to your battery location. Mine will be in the stern. The white wire in the photo runs back to the stern for the battery box hook up. I will splice that into the power wire for the unit.

Along with the standard molded in center Gear Track on the Big Rig and paired with a Ram Mounts Electronic Mount for Lowrance this is an excellent system! There are now multiple places to position the unit. The option to slide forward or back or mount to the side Gear tracks however is most comfortable.

If you have any questions about this install or anything else please leave me a comment.

Disclaimer:

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