Upgrading a 2014 Big Rig to 2015 status is pretty simple! A few modifications have been introduced on the new 2015 Big Rig. These upgrades can be purchased from your local Jackson Kayak dealer or from the Jackson Kayak online store.

The new additions include:

1. All new Seadek style adhesive Deck Pad.
2. Upgraded leaning post Grip Shrink pads.
3. The brand new Elite 2.0 seat with Thermarest back support.
4. The brand new CAM style seat latching system which can be applied to the 2014 model.
5. Upgraded all deck rigging bungee to yellow.

Installing the deck pad:

Prior to installing the deck pad clean the deck thoroughly. Let dry completely then wipe down with rubbing alcohol and again let dry completely. The install should be done when it is warm out above 50 degrees but under 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

Using a sharpie marker align the deck pad and mark the corners where it aligns with all scupper holes. Peel back the paper that covered the adhesive align with your markings and press down firmly. The adhesive is very sticky so you really only have 1 shot.

Upgrading the leaning post pads:

You’ll need a heat gun for this operation and a razor blade for cutting the Grip Shrink. The standard grip size on the 2015 Big Rig are (2x) 4″ for the sides and (1) 9″ for the top center. Cut accordingly.  Remove the leaning post from the kayak. Remove one support brace. Slide on one 4″ piece first. position it where you would like it to be on the side with the support brace that you did not remove. Heat and shrink it in place. Repeat the same step with the 8″ piece centering it on the top portion of the bar. Once complete replace the support brace and using Loktite on the bolt that it swivels on. Reattach it to the kayak and your 2015 leaning post is complete!

Updating to the new Elite 2.0 Seat:

I am hoping replacing the seat eliminates the creaking I used to experience with the original seat. The new Elite 2.0 seat fits the 2014 Big Rig but requires the Cam seat latch system.

Cam Conversion Kit:

The cam conversion it is a easy install. It includes the star hex bit for removing the screws that secure the security bar. Simply remove one screw and loosen the other enough to slide on the loop of the cam strap. Make sure the cam lever is facing the bow. Tighten and the install is complete!

YakAttack Camera Mounts:

Panfish Camera Pole With Extension:

The Panfish as the first camera mounting option offered by Yak Attack is a great camera mounting solution!  With the adjustable Ram Mount ball head and 28″ pole that also swivels the camera mount is ideal for behind back shots , hero selfish shots, and underwater footage. The RAM Ball head allows the camera to be easily maneuvered to any angle on the fly. It has 3 mounting options which are the RAM Mount, The Mighty Mount/Gear Track T-bolt, and Scotty Mount. Along with other Yak Attack and RAM Mount pieces you can extend or modify camera angles. The pole with the foam measuring around 2 1/2″ in diameter will fit snug in most rod holders. The Yak Attack Dog Bone can be added to the head portion to extend the mounting distance.

The Panfish camera pole alone retails from $60.00 – $65.00 depending on the choice of mounting.

Panfish Portrait:

The Panfish Portrait like its much bigger brother is the same concept besides being a fraction the size in height. The mount is best for low angle shots and hero shots with a lightweight and compact action camera. The RAM mount  allows articulation and clamping in many different positions. Personally this mount is used in the front of the kayak. If you have a remote control for your action camera a GearTrac or a mighty mount can be added to the bow and the camera mounted here for extreme photos of you and your catch!

The Panfish Portrait Retails for $50.00 GearTrac ready without mounting base

Dog Bone:

Dog Bone is a Yak Attack Engineered RAM Mount extension pole between for use between RAM links. With two ram balls on each end it kind of resembles a dog bone! The arm is available with 1″, 1.5″ RAM ball also a 1″ to 1.5″ RAM ball conversion. It has a foam grip and floats. The extensions area available in 4″ & 12″ 2 lengths.

The DogBone with RAM links retails for $52.00

The Dog Bone Extension retails for $26.00

Boomstick:

The latest innovation by YakAttack the boom stick is a camera boom with an overall length of 44 inches in length. Included with the boomstick is a RAM ball GoPro attachment for converting your GoPro mounting system to a the RAM style ball mount. The Boom stick can both be mounted or used handheld. Mounting system is RAM post mount. The RAM post mount can mount to a RAM post mount base or mounting base VIA the YakAttack gear track system. You may also  purchase an additional post mount articulating connection to give the Boomstick more positioning and angling capabilities. The Boomstick comes standard on the New 2015 Jackson Kayak Coosa HD!!

The Boomstick retails for $65.00 

The Articulating RAM post & mounting kit retails for $30.00

Installing electronics on a kayak can bring on many challenges. One of the major challenges are how to wire through the kayaks bulkhead and what products are manufactured to cap large drilled holes post wiring the fish finder. This article covers common Types of Hull Pass-Throughs.

After a lot of research here are a few types of hull pass-through caps for wiring electronics on your kayak.

Rubber Stopper 1/4″ – 1.5″ Drill

Commonly used for drain plugs and scupper holes the Rubber stopper can also be used for Thru Hull Wiring. Simply with a sharp box cutter cut a slit from the outer diameter to the center hole. This will allow you to pass the wire into the center of the stopper. Runt he connecting plug through the hole and simply press the stopper in small diameter of the flange first to make a seal. This method works but is not recommended for a permanent install. The stopper over time can come loose so check it every now and then. It wouldn’t hurt to silicone them in.

Cable Gland 1/4″ – 1″ Drill

The cable gland is a wiring connector that is able to match wire diameters with a grommet that seals tightening down a lock nut.

On the bottom of the gland is a threaded portion that is able to pass through a drilled hole in the hull and tightened down with an included ring nut. Cable glands do work great but the only problem i see with them is the protrusion they create. They are easily snagged by fishing line. In areas that fishing line will not snag they are great.

Cable Clam pass through 1″ – 2″ Drill

Cable clams are a good solution but protrude the most. They require 4 large screws holes perfectly aligned. Personally I think they are the most unsightly for applying on a kayak. They are purposed more for boats. They are also the most expensive and hardest to install.

TH Marine CeaCap 3/4″ Drill

The CeaCap is the most flush option but will only work with cable plugs that will pass through a 3/4″ hole. It is threaded and will turn the wire 90 degrees so it is flush with the hull. IT will allow for two 12 gauge wires to pass through.

West Marine Wire Cap 1″  Drill

The best out of them all I have found for large connectors is the West Marine Wire Cap. Fish finder connectors with 1″ diameter will work with this cap to cover the required hole to pass through the wire for both the transducer and the power. You may run two wires at 14 gauge through this cap max and 1 wire at 8 gauge id say max.