Upgrading a 2014 Big Rig to 2015 status is pretty simple! A few modifications have been introduced on the new 2015 Big Rig. These upgrades can be purchased from your local Jackson Kayak dealer or from the Jackson Kayak online store.

The new additions include:

  1. All new Seadek style adhesive Deck Pad.
  2. Upgraded leaning post Grip Shrink pads.
  3. The brand new Elite 2.0 seat with Thermarest back support.
  4. The brand new CAM style seat latching system which can be applied to the 2014 model.
  5. Upgraded all deck rigging bungee to yellow.

Installing the deck pad:

Prior to installing the deck pad clean the deck thoroughly. Let dry completely then wipe down with rubbing alcohol and again let dry completely. The install should be done when it is warm out above 50 degrees but under 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

Using a sharpie marker align the deck pad and mark the corners where it aligns with all scupper holes. Peel back the paper that covered the adhesive align with your markings and press down firmly. The adhesive is very sticky so you really only have 1 shot.

Upgrading the leaning post pads:

leaning post upgradeYou’ll need a heat gun for this operation and a razor blade for cutting the Grip Shrink. The standard grip size on the 2015 Big Rig are (2x) 4″ for the sides and (1) 9″ for the top center. Cut accordingly.  Remove the leaning post from the kayak. Remove one support brace. Slide on one 4″ piece first. position it where you would like it to be on the side with the support brace that you did not remove. Heat and shrink it in place. Repeat the same step with the 8″ piece centering it on the top portion of the bar. Once complete replace the support brace and using Loktite on the bolt that it swivels on. Reattach it to the kayak and your 2015 leaning post is complete!

Updating to the new Elite 2.0 Seat:

I am hoping replacing the seat eliminates the creaking I used to experience with the original seat. The new Elite 2.0 seat fits the 2014 Big Rig but requires the Cam seat latch system.

cam lockCam Conversion Kit:

The cam conversion it is a easy install. It includes the star hex bit for removing the screws that secure the security bar. Simply remove one screw and loosen the other enough to slide on the loop of the cam strap. Make sure the cam lever is facing the bow. Tighten and the install is complete!

Installing electronics on a kayak can bring on many challenges. One of the major challenges are how to wire through the kayaks bulkhead and what products are manufactured to cap large drilled holes post wiring the fish finder. This article covers common Types of Hull Pass-Throughs.

After a lot of research here are a few types of hull pass-through caps for wiring electronics on your kayak.

Rubber Stopper 1/4″ – 1.5″ Drill

rubber stoppersCommonly used for drain plugs and scupper holes the Rubber stopper can also be used for Thru Hull Wiring. Simply with a sharp box cutter cut a slit from the outer diameter to the center hole. This will allow you to pass the wire into the center of the stopper. Runt he connecting plug through the hole and simply press the stopper in small diameter of the flange first to make a seal. This method works but is not recommended for a permanent install. The stopper over time can come loose so check it every now and then. It wouldn’t hurt to silicone them in.

Cable Gland 1/4″ – 1″ Drill

cable glands

The cable gland is a wiring connector that is able to match wire diameters with a grommet that seals tightening down a lock nut.

On the bottom of the gland is a threaded portion that is able to pass through a drilled hole in the hull and tightened down with an included ring nut. Cable glands do work great but the only problem i see with them is the protrusion they create. They are easily snagged by fishing line. In areas that fishing line will not snag they are great.

Cable Clam pass through 1″ – 2″ Drill

cable clam

Cable clams are a good solution but protrude the most. They require 4 large screws holes perfectly aligned. Personally I think they are the most unsightly for applying on a kayak. They are purposed more for boats. They are also the most expensive and hardest to install.

TH Marine CeaCap 3/4″ Drill

CeaCap (Large)The CeaCap is the most flush option but will only work with cable plugs that will pass through a 3/4″ hole. It is threaded and will turn the wire 90 degrees so it is flush with the hull. IT will allow for two 12 gauge wires to pass through.

West Marine Wire Cap 1″  Drill

 

hullpassproducts (Large)The best out of them all I have found for large connectors is the West Marine Wire Cap. Fish finder connectors with 1″ diameter will work with this cap to cover the required hole to pass through the wire for both the transducer and the power. You may run two wires at 14 gauge through this cap max and 1 wire at 8 gauge id say max.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yak Chum’s Personal 2014 Jackson Kayak Big Rig in Detail:

2014 Jackson Kayak BIG RIG in Green Hornet Color:Me BR Smile (Large)

Rigging:

Rigged for Lowrance Elite 5 Fishfinder or Elite 5 TI series with scupper Transducer Install

Torqeedo Ultralight 403 Installed With RAM Mounted Throttle Controller Unit

Gear Track Mounted Bait Cutting Board

Paddle Used:

Bending Branches Angler Pro in Sea foam Green 250 cm

Accessories Used:

My 2015 Upgrades:

  • Jackson Elite 2.0 Seat with RealtreeMAX5 Camo seat cover
  • Cam lock seat mounting strap
  • Leaning post pads
  • Rubber Adhesive deck pad

My 2016 Upgrades:

  • 2016 Jackson Kayak Routed dual layer foam deck pad
  • Added Line Cutterz to Seat
  • Lowrance Elite 5 TI Totalscan Install

Big Rig Detail

 

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