Building a portable power; water resistant; Charging Station; for 2-3 12aH wire parallel batteries:

The intent of this parallel portable power pack is for primitive camping areas. Having the ability to charge devices, power LED lighting and even run a small 12V fan in your tent can keep you very comfortable!

Materials needed:

• Water Resistant Ammo Case
• Volt Meter, 12V Receptacle, USB
• (6) Female Spade Crimp On Connectors
• (2) 18″ length – 14 AWG Copper stranded wire w/ insulation Red & Black
• (2) Butt Connectors
• Fuse Block or Inline Fuse
• Parallel battery harnesses (previously made here)

Tools:

• Wire strippers/crimps
• Power Drill
• Heat Gun
• Hole Saw
• Screwdrivers

Using an Ammo Crate I purchased from Amazon.com the portable power battery pack can be expanded to run from a total of one to three batteries this size. Using the box creates a water resistant seal for all the electronics. Also adding a latching switch along with a 12V receptacle, USB charging port, and a volt meter.

The combination of the 3 can be purchased on Amazon.com.

The ammo crate is not water proof but water resistant. It does however have a gasket in the lid. The primary use of this battery box is for charging things such as phones and other electronics while camping. It will also be set up for Running a 12V oscillating fan on hot tent nights.

For a kayak battery box with parallel batteries I would recommend a smaller box first of all and the PVC style LFP battery packs.

Installing the port plate:

Remove the USB, Volt Meter, and the Cigarette lighter receptacle from the plate. Locate where you would like to mount it. Remember the receptacles will protrude inside the box 3″ also require room for spade connectors to wire them. So install where there  be about 4″ if rear clearance. Score a center line for each hole to be drilled. Using a hole saw drill out the 3 holes. Reinsert the accessories into the plate. Recess them into the box. Silicone the plate (optional) then drill 4 holes for the corner screws.

Wire each accessory to the positive and negative sides. Wire int he switch and your battery box is complete.

Want to extend the run time of your kayak electronics for longer fishing trips or tournaments? This article focuses on How To Connect 12V Batteries in Parallel. This can be easily acquired with the addition of a second SLA or LFP battery (LiFePO4) wired parallel. The second battery will need to be the same voltage as the first or they will work against each other which may result in heat issues or decreased run time. Also if you are using a SLA you must use the same type of battery in parallel due to the voltage issue.

You can create a parallel connection between 2 batteries with a few materials simply right at home.

Materials needed:

• (4) Female Spade Crimp On Connectors
• (2) 18″ length – 14 AWG Copper stranded wire w/ insulation Red & Black
• (2) Butt Connectors (optional)
• Fuse Block or Inline Fuse
• Blade Fuses

Tools:

• Wire strippers/crimps
• Heat Gun

Fabricating a Parallel Wire Harness:

Most small 12v batteries have male spade connectors on the top as battery terminals. Although some have other connectors its best to match them so you may disconnect the battery from the harness. Since the battery harness will be used in a wet marine environment its best to use marine grade heat shrink connectors.

The parallel harness will simply connect two batteries together on the same polarity. Positive to Positive and Negative to Negative. Seen in the diagram on the left, you will to wire in an inline fuse or fuse block on the positive side. Then adding a latching switch adds safety while plugging and unplugging devices around water.

If using an inline fuse the switch can be spliced in after. If using a fuse block a switch can be added before the block as a master switch.  Also you may want a switch to control power to every accessory. In that case switch all positive leads from the fuse block. This comes in handy when running say lighting and a fish finder. Separate switches will operate each electrical device.

My Parallel Battery Project includes (2) 12V 12 aH LFP (LiFePO4) batteries. When completed total output will be 12V 24aH. This will extend the run time of the battery but will still power the same electronics.

For building the battery box check out my post: Portable Water Resistant Enclosure & Switching 

Portable Power Charging Station

If you have owned a sit inside or hybrid kayak you understand how hard it is to drain water out of it. Especially when its on the roof of your truck full from the rain or out on open water taking waves over the bow. An electric bilge pump is a inexpensive answer to the problem. This article focuses on installing an electric kayak bilge pump inside a Jackson Kilroy LT but can be modified to work with any sit inside style kayak.

Materials:

Tools:

Install:

One of the simpler install on the Kilroy the electric bilge pump should only take 15 minutes to install. The bilge pump location I chose is in front of the stern bulkhead.  This location is idea because tilting the kayak bow up the water will collect here. Being one of the flattest accessible areas will allow the most water to be pumped from the inside deck.

Remove the strainer from the bottom of the pump. Using the silicone spread it on the flat mounting area of the bracket. Firmly press against the hull push it so it adheres to the bulkhead wall. Let dry overnight.

Clip pump into housing bracket. Connect tube to outlet of pump. Choose a location for the 3/4″ Thru-Hull fitting. Make sure the location is above where the waterline of the kayak fully loaded would be. It is important the mounting area should be flat but angle away from the kayak. Mark the desired location and drill a 1″ hole.

Measure the distance to your chosen exit location. With a razor blade cut the tubing leaving some slack. Connect the end to the Thru-Hull fitting and tighten down hose clamps snug.

Wiring Electric Bilge Pump:

Using 2 butt connectors each splice and a 3″ piece of 1/2″ adhesive heat shrink tubing connect the 5′ length of 2 stranded wire to the 12v disconnect. Connect black to black and red to red. Crimp on the butt connectors with a heat gun shrink the ends to the wire. Do the same for the pump leads on the other end of the disconnect and the 12V power plug. Add a dab of Dielectric Grease to each connection on the disconnect plug to fight corrosion and keep it maintained for easy removal. Once the wiring is completed you will mount the disconnect and wires out of the way. This is the storage area of the Kilroy. The less things to snag on is best. I used Cable Tie Mounts and wire ties to hang the wire up under the cockpit lip out of the way.

Battery Connection:

My battery box is set up with a 12V cigarette lighter plug. It is your preference whichever type of connector you would like to connect to the battery! I’m going to see how this works out for now. Maybe add separate switch on the battery box to control the on/off of the cigarette lighter receptacle.

Disclaimer:

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