Lowrance Elite 5 TI TotalScan Kayak Install for Jackson Kayak Big Rig

TS_DimensionsLuckily the Jackson Kayak Big Rig has factory molded scuppers that accept large transducers like the Raymarine Dragonfly. Although the Lowrance Elite 5 TI TotalScan transducer is over 10″ long it mounts in pretty flush on the Jackson Kayak Big Rig with some modifications.

TotalScan Kayak Scupper Transducer Install & Mods:

xducer diagramI had to flip the mounting bracket upside down then mount the transducer to bracket. This allowed an extra 1/4″ of space so the transducer mounted closer to the hull and more flush inside the scupper trough.

Transducer mounting bracket cable notch modification. (Optional)

I opted to notch out the mounting bracket to receive the transducer cable flush. Doing this allowed me to install the transducer with the wire forward. I figured the less exposed cable the more protected it would be to objects in the water damaging it. Simply I marked with a sharpie marker the center and width of the cable. Using a vise and an angle grinder to notch in a space for the cable to pass through.

scupper mount with bracket

Using the Lowrance Kayak Scupper Mounting Kit. With a simple modification using a bolt and about 6 washers you can pack out the middle of the bracket to sit flush on the transom bracket. See the image below.

 

A Big Rig application.

To secure the transducer so it will not move at all add bungee to hold cantilevered end taught to the hull.The bungee will pass through the scupper behind the actual mounting plate. Using a scrap piece of plastic drill with a hole saw to create a tie down plug. Then pass through the bungee and tie a knot this will hold the transducer taught in the scupper. I ran the new transducer wire through the same thru hull holes as the HDI skimmer location.

scupper mounting

Scupper_Mounted_TotalScan

 

Opening Day Kayak Fishing 2016

Finally hit the water on the kayak after weeks healing from an unfortunate back injury. Learning this lesson the hard way always remember when lifting your kayak to lift it correctly. Always lift with your legs not your back. Here is the story of my opening day kayak fishing 2016!

20160418_074347By this time the Striped Bass bite has been on for about 2 and a half weeks. Many resident fish have been caught and migratory fish have started to become prevalent.  The water temps still cold ranging from 44 degrees up to 54 degrees in Raritan Bay have seemed to push the fish into shallower water where the bait seems to be hanging.

IMG_5846Arriving early just before sunrise the air was warmer that typical for this time of year. The day was a test on the new steering setup for the Torqeedo and a good day to catch the first striped bass of my season. Everyone plans to do well fishing on opening day. For me 2016 started off with a few issues. The first was my GoPro with the extended battery tether add on. Would not turn on. After probably 10 minutes of tinkering with it finally noticing the plug on the inside was not completely locked in. The second issue was my newly steering cable setup upon leaving shore the foot brace pedals folded right over there was 6″ of slack on the one side. Dumbfounded back on shore luckily using adjustable cable stops I was able to field adjust the length. Back out on the water again same thing happened on the opposite side. Putting two and two together i figured after running the new tubing and cable the day prior failing to pull the slack tubing out from inside the hull resulted in an extra 6″ on both sides. Finally after adjusting the cables its the sun is way up. The tide was still pretty much slack so trolling around looking for good marks on the fish finder was the plan. Wouldn’t you know an hour into fishing the fully charged SLA battery is DEAD! wow

IMG_5864IMG_5879It was a tough morning fishing so I took some time out and with my camera shot a few photos of the awesome ship graveyard. Over 30 ships lie there for one time scrap metal that ended up where it lay corroding and rotting into the Arthur Kill between New Jersey and Staten Island NY. From what i understand the adjacent scrap metal yard purchased the obsolete ships in hope to disassemble them for the steel and scrap metal. It is said the workers couldn’t keep up with the amounts of ships that came in and eventually was no  longer worth it economically to strip these vessels. Plus the site became a dumping ground for smaller boat owners to rid themselves of their old boats.

IMG_5863The graveyard of ships was much different than I had remembered it previously visiting the location six years prior. Apparently Hurricane Sandy did a job speeding up the decomposition of these scuttled ships with its 80 mph sustained wind and 16 foot storm surge that barreled up the Arthur Kill from Raritan Bay. It is an eerie place but also is fascinating due to how time seems to have stopped here. A great day to have my camera on board! I took a few snap shots of a few of the more intact ships.

IMG_5896Although a pretty dangerous area I would recommend every experienced kayak paddler to check it out! It is an experience that has to be witnessed in person.

The launch is on the New Jersey Side of the Kill located in Seawarren at Captain Carlsen Park to the left of the boat ramp is a beach typically used for kayak drop in. Its a pretty simple drop in and can be done alone.

After snapping a few photos and taking a few videos with my GoPro it was back to fishing. The tide was now going out and the current was strong. There was a dozen or so boats also trolling. I saw a boat pick up a bass on a 12″ soft shad. By this time my battery for the Lowrance Elite 5 Chirp had died and i was fishing blind. I tried to hold in the areas that marked fish earlier.

Giving up on trolling made the decision to fish pilings. Using a 4″ Crystal Minnow casting and retrieving. Finally a strike but the fish missed the bait leaving a large swirl in its wake. The wind was now very strong blowing out of the North which was with the tide making it a really fast drift. After drifting about a mile fishing the pilings i decided to go back to trolling one last pass. Using the Torqeedo became key. The tide was so strong paddling would have not helped at all.

 

Finally a hit fish on! The line screaming off grabbing the rod from the RAM Mount 2008 Rod Holder. The kayak sleigh ride is on! Fighting the fish for a good 10 minutes and landing a 28.5″ Striper first of the season on the Opening Day first trip out! Very happy to not be skunked and great to have a tight line!

 

 

Jackson Kayak Kraken Sealect Designs Trucourse Rudder System Install

Sealect Design ProductsThis article describes step by step how to installation for the Sealect Designs Tru Course rudder system and footbraces on the Jackson Kayak Kraken. The Sealect Designs Tru Course steering is an upgrade to the JK factory kit offered. The Gas Pedal style foot braces are much more comfortable to steer. This install is for both the Kraken 15.5 and the 13.5.

This install begins with a stock “Rudder Ready” Kraken kayak. The definition of “Rudder Ready” is all of the tubing for the control cables and trim line has been installed in the Jackson Kayak factory. Every Jackson Kayak fishing line boat is “Rudder Ready” from the factory. This saves a ton of time on the install not having to drill and run the tubing for the lines.

 

 

Materials and Products:

Sealect Designs Tru-Course Rudder K748150-3

Sealect Designs Tru Course Foot Braces w/ Rudder Control K747205-1

Sealect Designs Trucourse Grudgeon (Rudder Mount Bracket) K748280-1

(2) Sealect Designs Cable Adjusters K747260-1

(4) 1//4″ x 2″ long 7/8″ Hex Bolts

(4) 1/4″ Hole x 1/2″ OD x 5/8″ L Nylon Spacers

30′ Stainless 1/16″ cable rope (Local Kayak Shop)

(2) Swedges

3/8″ Heat Shrink Tubing

Nylon Stop Ball K655140-1

Bike Chain Lube

8″ Length 1/8″ Shock Chord

6 feet of 500 para-chord

Tools:hex keys

Drill

Diagonal Wire Cutters

Heavy duty pliers for crimping Swedges

Screw Drivers

3/8″ Wrench

7/8″ Wrench

Hex Keys (Some Included with kit)

Madd Skillz (Just Kidding) This is a pretty simple install/upgrade!

 

Install:

Click to Enlarge

Click to Enlarge

 

 

Step 1: First you will need to remove the stock foot braces. With a Philips head screw driver and a 3/8″ wrench remove the bolts and the foot braces in their entirety.

 

 

 

 

Step2-3

Click to Enlarge

 

Step 2: The holes drilled for the stock foot braces are 14.5″ O.C. which is the same for the new Tru-Course Footbraces. You will need to drill out the existing 1/8″ holes to 1/4″ in the deck of the kayak to accept the new hardware.

Step 3: Pop out and remove the included Tru-Course footbrace hardware. Set aside the washers and nuts. You will reuse these with the new hardware.

 

 

 

 

Click to Enlarge

Click to Enlarge

 

 

 

Step 4: Using 3/16″ Bungee tie a knot in one end. Feeding the un-knotted end through the hole in the back of the foot brace pedal then tying a knot in that end after passing it through the tie down point on the pedal. This will act as an auto rebound to the center position when not controlling the rudder.

 

 

 

 

Step4

Click to Enlarge

 

 

Step 5: Replace with (2) 1/4″ x 2″ long 7/8″ Hex Stainless Steel Bolts each footrace (4) total. The bolt head will counter sink with the outside of the foot brace U shaped poly brackets along with the new cable adjusters. The threaded portion will penetrate the kayak hull along with the 1/4″ Hole x 1/2″ OD x 5/8″ L Nylon Spacer on the exterior and a washer and the nylon lock nut on the inside of the hull.

 

 

 

foot braces installed

Click To Enlarge

 

 

Step 6: Now to run the steering cable. Feed the cable from the foot brace side through the “rudder ready” tubing to the stern of the kayak. While feeding the cable use the bike chain oil on the cable as you pass it through the tubing. This will help keep salt water and dirt out while keeping the cable sliding freely. You can also feed from the stern if it is your preference.

 

 

 

kraken stern bracket

Click to Enlarge

rudder and cables

Click to Enlarge

 

Step 7: At the stern of the kayak locate two 1/4 20 plastic screws in the molded inserts. Remove them. Using the Sealect Designs Tru-Course Bracket and the stainless 1/4-20 screws along with blue loctite fasten the bracket to the stern. The Bracket should be mounted as pictured with the longer end down.  Slide the rudder post through the horizontal holes in the bracket and secure using the split ring.

 

 

 

 

Click To Enlarge

Click To Enlarge

 

 

Step 8: On the rudder remove both plastic covers (2 small hex screws) on the rudder exposing the cable tie down point. Loosen the hex screw on the metal cable stop. Slide the cable through the hole in front of the rudder and slide under the metal plate or cable stop at a 90 degree angle so the cable points towards the back. You only need a 1/2 inch of cable beyond the plate. Tighten down on both sides.

 

 

 

foot brace pinned

Click To Enlarge

 

 

Step 9: Back at the foot braces using the included hex key locate a small hole on the face of the foot pedal. Slide the hex key into the hole with the pedal in the upright position find where the key slides in holding the pedal in place. This will be the center position.

 

 

 

Click To Enlarge

Click To Enlarge

 

 

Step 10: Loosen the grooved guide at the top of the pedal enough to accept the cable. From the stern run the cable through the guide counter clockwise front then to the back through the groove and under running the cable through the adjuster. Now tighten the top guide.

 

 

 

 

 

loop and swedge

Click To Enlarge

 

 

Step 11:  Thread the cable adjuster almost all of the way in. Pulling the cable tight using a swedge make a loop and crimp. Cut the excess cable.

(Sealect Designs prefers to install with the cable swedged or terminated at the footbrace first at the cable adjuster then aligning the rudder and terminating the cable at the rudder.) This is your preference as i have found both ways are as good.

 

 

Step 12: Repeat steps 9-11 on the adjacent side.

trim line at rudder

Click To Enlarge

 

 

Step 13: Run the para-chord from the starboard trim control location. There is factory installed tubing that runs to the stern at the rudder. Tie the trim line to the hole at the top of the Tru-Course Rudder foil.

 

 

 

 

Trim cockpit

Click To Enlarge

 

 

Step 14: At the trim control location slide the trim stop ball onto the para-chord pull the rudder into the trip up position. You do not want the rudder to be parallel to the kayak let it be on a 30 degree angle. This will allow the rudder to trim down automatically. If tied down to tight the rudder may not deploy easily. Tie a loop in the end of the trim line around the J hook to secure.

 

 

 

This completes the Sealect Designs Tru-Course rudder install on the Jackson Kayak Kraken. Good luck, this was the best upgrade to the Kraken I have experienced! Much better turning of the boat keeping her straight in the wind top of the line rudder control and the most comfortable setup out there! The kayak was made for it!

Check out SealectDesigns.com for a local dealer with the dealer locator or call for availability! Phone Ryan at 425-252-2149 and let him know The Plastic Hull sent ya!!

Page 6 of 19« First...4567810...Last »