Dio F Spec PFD

2013-04-01_21-35-54_491As US Coast Guard Type III certified and a required piece of kayak fishing gear MTI Adventurewear’s latest Fishing PFD the MTI Dio F Spec Review is incredibly comfortable! Its high back is ideal for sit on top kayaks with high seat backs for maximum all day comfort. It has ample amounts of storage. Fishing from a kayak canoe or any small platform you always need all of the storage you can get. With 3 pockets the storage is ample. Personally I keep my digital camera in the  right side pocket along with a pocket knife. The pin reinforcement is a great idea for pinning retractable leashes to the PFD without tearing the nylon fabric. These leashes are great for small tools such as pliers line sippers and small folding knives. Its high visual gray color and added reflective strips makes you exceptionally visible when out on the water during the day and night.2013-04-02_18-27-22_812IMG_1498On the left pocket face there is a sleeve with a Velcro strap to house your fishing pliers. On the face of the right pocket is a bungee which I usually clip a leash or stow my boga grips. One thing I really love is the Zip up. It totally beats out straps and clips. Left Pocket for radio. I added an external mic speaker on my hand held radio for ease of use and so I could stow it in the pocket at all times. Downside is the radio is not waterproof anymore.   IMG_1500Right two Pockets includes a fly pad for your fly storage. A work bridge for tying and anything else you would need a flat surface for.  Above the right pocket is a leather patch area for pinning retractable tools such as line cutters. The PFD is endless in what you can store within it.

MTI Pose!You will not be uncomfortable or hot wearing this PFD as its mesh breaths your body feel the breeze in the summer for maximum coolness in the summer heat.    MTI PFD

Get to your local MTI dealer and try it on! I recommend it. If you dont know where to try on MTI PFD’s check out their website at www.mtiadventurewear.com.

Dont buy another GoPro battery until you have read this!

Wasabi Power Hero2

Last year I was searching for a spare GoPro battery for my Hero2 cameras on Amazon.com and came across Wasabi Power. The kit included (2) Wasabi Power batteries and a Wall/Car 12V charger for $20.00. I figured what do I have to loose going with that option since the new GoPro battery was $40.00.

Turns out this was a great purchase. I have been using it over a year now and it will charge a dead battery in about an hour and a half which beats the USB cable. I can now charge on the go with the 12V option. The batteries last as long as the original GoPro batteries. This is an excellent alternative.

Wasabi Power also supplies batteries and chargers for Hero3 & Hero3+ cameras.

 

Wasabi Power Hero 3+

Although from what I understand is they are developing a new charger for the Hero3+ batteries due to the 2 notches that have been removed from the Hero3 batteries. They also produce batteries and chargers for other photo and video devices. Check out their Facebook for more information and links to the charger and batteries you are searching for.

https://www.facebook.com/WasabiPower

The rudder cable on the left foot brace of my Cuda 14 snapped in Cape May. I decided to purchase new cable and parts to replace both sides. IMG_1060This repair is standard for all Jackson Kayak Fishing Kayak models with smart rudder packages installed.

This is a tutorial on how to replace the existing rudder cables with new stainless steel aircraft cable.

 

Parts needed:

Rudder Cable Parts

2 Rudder Fork End

2 Clevis Pins

2 Rudder Cable Stop Sleeves

2 Aluminum Swedge (cable crimp)

20 feet of Stainless Steel Rudder Cable

Bike Chain Oil

Shrink Wrap Tubing

 

All of these parts can be acquired from your local kayak shop or online at http://www.thekayakfishingstore.com/c/Kayak-Rudders.html

Step 1:

Foot Control RemovalTo remove the foot track. With a 3/8″ open end wrench and a Philips head screw driver remove the screw behind the foot control track towards the rear of the kayak.

This will allow you to swivel the track upwards and slide the foot pin portion of the foot control track out exposing the cable and the screw it is mounted to. Unscrew where the cable mounts to the track. If the cable is already broken using sheet metal snips or dykes cut the cable so there is no fraying. If not just cut the end metal eye off. Once this is done go to the rudder and slide the cable out of the cable tube. Remove the split ring and the pin holding the existing cable to the rudder. This will detach the existing cable.

Step 2:

Insert the new stainless steel cable into the tubing starting at the foot control. As you slide in the cable inch by inch lube it with a continuous bead of bike chain oil. This will help the cable slide within the tube, keep water out, and hopefully prolong the beginning of any type of corrosion. Once it passes out of the tube at the stern stop feeding after 18″ is exposed.

 

Step 3:

Rudder ConnectionYou will now pass the cable through the opening in the rudder fork then put the cable through the rudder cable stop bullet sleeve. Let about an inch protrude through the sleeve and crimp. If you do not have the aircraft cable stop bullet crimp tool you can use a hammer and a heavy piece of steel to smash it on there with. Then you may cut off the remaining cable end and using the new clevis pin attach to the rudder.

 

Repeat steps 1 – 3 for the opposite side.

 

 Step 4:

Attaching the cables to the foot control. Now this is the area where you want to center the rudder and adjust accordingly so everything is perfectly centered. Using the existing screw and nut on the foot brace add 2 washers to hold the cable loop. Slide on the swedge and a 3 inch piece of heat shrunk tubing on the steering cable.  Set the loop of the new cable between the washers and and tighten the nut. The washers will compress the cable and lock it into place. Crimp the swedge with flat pliers locking the cable into place close to the connection of the foot brace. Once complete slide the heat shrink tubing over the cable and clip the tag end back leaving an inch of cable. Now use a heat gun the shrink the tubing over the swedge, the tag end, and the leading end of the cable to protect it from hanging up on anything.

Video to follow soon.

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