Review:

This camera mount is by far the most rigid mount that is over 6″ in length I have tested yet. It has minimal flex therefore the camera is stable and captures a better shot than most other mounts. The mount featured in this review is the one with the Yak Attack style T Bolt gear track attachment also known as the RAM pin lock. This will mount to tracks from YakAttack, Jackson Kayak, Wilderness Systems, and Native along with other manufacturers bases. See the Kayak Rigging 101 Mounting Base Options Article!

Its ability to be bent and molded in any direction is phenomenal! Great for shots extended off the side of the kayak or underwater / top water shots.

This mount has become my new favorite camera mount. I haven’t even scratched the surface on camera angles it can provide.

Get yours at your local kayak dealer or RamMount.com.

Web link:

RAM Mounts Flex Arm Camera Mount

Below is Quoted from the Ram Mounts Website:

Post Pinlock Base, 18″ Rigid Aluminum Rod and Single Socket Arm

Description:

The RAP-B-200-1-TRA1-18U consists of quick release post pinlock base, 18″ rigid aluminum rod and single socket arm for 1″ ball bases/adapters. The pinlock base contains a unique t-bolt mechanism that stabilizes the entire mount, along with making it compatible with most kayak tracks. The 18″ rigid aluminum rod can be bent to position your device to its optimum viewing location. The single socket is compatible with all 1″ ball bases and adapters.

Features:
1. Quick release and installation
2. Pinlock system creates added friction and stability
3. High strength materials ensure product longevity
4. Suitable for marine environments
5. 18″ rod can be bent and repositioned
6. Compatible tracks include Yakattack’s GearTrac System, Wilderness Systems SlideTrax and common T-Slot Track Systems
7. Easily relocate mount along any point on the track
8. Extremely versatile for adapting to almost any application
9. Swivel/swing technology allows for easy turning of mount and prevents obstruction
10. Lifetime warranty

Material:
High Strength Composite & Aluminum

Ball Size:
1″ Rubber Ball “B” Size

Was working on a few upgrades and repairs to the Big Rig today. Had these deck fittings from Sea-Lect Designs. I was trying to figure out a great location on the Jackson Kayaks these would work best. Well it turns out with a longer 1/4-20 screw it is adaptable to the existing handle threaded inserts without modifying the handles. This is a great place to attach paddle leashes rod leashes and fish stringers. The double loop deck loops work out great in this location if leave your rods leashed at all times. I tend to do this especially fishing saltwater where there typically is larger waves more rocking and a current.

Things you will need:

Sea-Lect Designs Deck Fitting Double Loop PArt# K736560-1 (Pack of 6)

1/4″-20x 1″ oval Head SS Screw (1) per every desired Deck Loop install

Loc-Tite Thread Locker

Instructions

Simply remove factory installed screw. Keep handle and washer at location. Using 1 Double Loop Deck Loop and 1 1/4″-20 x 1″ Screw thread screw through deck loop in center mounting hole. Dab a drop of Loc-Tite on threads. Tighten until tight. DO Not over tighten as it could cause the threaded insert to break its bond with the plastic of the hull and damage the kayak.

For the products listed in this article please visit http://www.sealectdesigns.com to locate a dealer near you.

Disclaimer:

Installing hardware may cause damage and/or void manufacturer warranties.  ThePlasticHull.net its authors or any other source of information on this website is in no way responsible for your actions nor any type issues or damage that may occur.  The information provided on this website is a free reference guide only. The authors of all information, sponsors and the owners of the website that host this information are not liable for any problems or issues that arise from the use of this information. Users of this information hereby acknowledge that all use of this information is done by their own free will, at their own sole risk, understanding that destruction of property, injury, or death could occur.

This is not a kit install but a custom anchor trolley.   I wanted it to be unique.

Things you will need

• 2 Pulleys Stainless Steel
• 1/8″ bungee – Color of choice
• at least 30 feet of reflective 5/32″ poly rope
• 2 Deck Loops
• 4 Nuts bolts and rubber washers.
• 2″ Nylon Ring

(Below Not Photoed)

• Galvanized Hog Rings
• Heat Shrink Tubing

Tools

• Drill
• Torch or Bic Lighter
• Pocket Knife
• Philips screw Driver
• 3/8″ Socket
• 1/4″ Drive Socket Wrench
• Pliers

What is an Anchor Trolley and why is it needed?

Access the bow or stern is basically impossible unless you were to get off the kayak and swim there. Simply using a block and loop conveyor system aka Anchor Trolley. An anchor trolley is basically a clothing line that is used to shift the point of your anchoring from cockpit to both bow and stern. An anchor trolley can be installed on either side of the kayak or both. Its all about how you the angler would prefer to use the system.

Now to install your anchor trolley. First you will cut (2) 8″ lengths of the 1/8″ bungee. Use the Torch or Bic lighter to fuse the Nylon sheath around the rubber bungee chords. This will ensure the bungee will not fall apart.

Now you will insert each bungee into the eye of the block and tie both ends together with a knot.

Once this is done its time to locate the Pad Eyes or the attachment location to the kayak. Approx 12″ from tip of bow and stern. Drill the upper hole first and thread the bolt in to hold the pad eye in place. Angle the pad eye away from the bow on a 45 degree angle but make sure it is flat to the boat. Drill the second hole and thread in. Using the washer with the rubber on the inside make sure that faces the inside of the hull. Snug the nut down tight enough where its not going to move. Repeat the same for the stern. Once the pad eyes are installed connect the blocks to each one.

Using the poly reflective rope and run it through the bow block first bottom to top and back to the stern block top to bottom. With the tag end of the rope slide on a piece of heat shrink tubing then loop it through the Nylon ring leaving about 3″ excess crimp two Hog Rings as close to the nylon ring as possible around the tag end and the main line of the poly rope making the loop permanent around the nylon ring. Cut the tag end of the rope back 1/2″ before the Hog Ring. You will now slide the heat shrink tubing over the tag end and the hog rings. Using a heat gun shrink the tubing but take caution not to burn the poly rope nylon ring or heat shrink.

now pull rope from spool end to the nylon ring and add 12″ and cut. Burn end of the rope and run the new tag end through the ring. Snug up the trolley and using 5 half hitches tie the line. Using half hitches will make the trolley adjustable in the future as the rope gets wet it may stretch. Simply un-tie and re-tie snug again.

You have now successfully installed an anchor trolley on your Jackson Cuda 14!

Disclaimer:

Installing hardware may cause damage and/or void manufacturer warranties.  ThePlasticHull.net its authors or any other source of information on this website is in no way responsible for your actions nor any type issues or damage that may occur.  The information provided on this website is a free reference guide only. The authors of all information, sponsors and the owners of the website that host this information are not liable for any problems or issues that arise from the use of this information. Users of this information hereby acknowledge that all use of this information is done by their own free will, at their own sole risk, understanding that destruction of property, injury, or death could occur.