Dont buy another GoPro battery until you have read this!

Wasabi Power Hero2

Last year I was searching for a spare GoPro battery for my Hero2 cameras on Amazon.com and came across Wasabi Power. The kit included (2) Wasabi Power batteries and a Wall/Car 12V charger for $20.00. I figured what do I have to loose going with that option since the new GoPro battery was $40.00.

Turns out this was a great purchase. I have been using it over a year now and it will charge a dead battery in about an hour and a half which beats the USB cable. I can now charge on the go with the 12V option. The batteries last as long as the original GoPro batteries. This is an excellent alternative.

Wasabi Power also supplies batteries and chargers for Hero3 & Hero3+ cameras.

 

Wasabi Power Hero 3+

Although from what I understand is they are developing a new charger for the Hero3+ batteries due to the 2 notches that have been removed from the Hero3 batteries. They also produce batteries and chargers for other photo and video devices. Check out their Facebook for more information and links to the charger and batteries you are searching for.

https://www.facebook.com/WasabiPower

The rudder cable on the left foot brace of my Cuda 14 snapped in Cape May. I decided to purchase new cable and parts to replace both sides. IMG_1060This repair is standard for all Jackson Kayak Fishing Kayak models with smart rudder packages installed.

This is a tutorial on how to replace the existing rudder cables with new stainless steel aircraft cable.

 

Parts needed:

Rudder Cable Parts

2 Rudder Fork End

2 Clevis Pins

2 Rudder Cable Stop Sleeves

2 Aluminum Swedge (cable crimp)

20 feet of Stainless Steel Rudder Cable

Bike Chain Oil

Shrink Wrap Tubing

 

All of these parts can be acquired from your local kayak shop or online at http://www.thekayakfishingstore.com/c/Kayak-Rudders.html

Step 1:

Foot Control RemovalTo remove the foot track. With a 3/8″ open end wrench and a Philips head screw driver remove the screw behind the foot control track towards the rear of the kayak.

This will allow you to swivel the track upwards and slide the foot pin portion of the foot control track out exposing the cable and the screw it is mounted to. Unscrew where the cable mounts to the track. If the cable is already broken using sheet metal snips or dykes cut the cable so there is no fraying. If not just cut the end metal eye off. Once this is done go to the rudder and slide the cable out of the cable tube. Remove the split ring and the pin holding the existing cable to the rudder. This will detach the existing cable.

Step 2:

Insert the new stainless steel cable into the tubing starting at the foot control. As you slide in the cable inch by inch lube it with a continuous bead of bike chain oil. This will help the cable slide within the tube, keep water out, and hopefully prolong the beginning of any type of corrosion. Once it passes out of the tube at the stern stop feeding after 18″ is exposed.

 

Step 3:

Rudder ConnectionYou will now pass the cable through the opening in the rudder fork then put the cable through the rudder cable stop bullet sleeve. Let about an inch protrude through the sleeve and crimp. If you do not have the aircraft cable stop bullet crimp tool you can use a hammer and a heavy piece of steel to smash it on there with. Then you may cut off the remaining cable end and using the new clevis pin attach to the rudder.

 

Repeat steps 1 – 3 for the opposite side.

 

 Step 4:

Attaching the cables to the foot control. Now this is the area where you want to center the rudder and adjust accordingly so everything is perfectly centered. Using the existing screw and nut on the foot brace add 2 washers to hold the cable loop. Slide on the swedge and a 3 inch piece of heat shrunk tubing on the steering cable.  Set the loop of the new cable between the washers and and tighten the nut. The washers will compress the cable and lock it into place. Crimp the swedge with flat pliers locking the cable into place close to the connection of the foot brace. Once complete slide the heat shrink tubing over the cable and clip the tag end back leaving an inch of cable. Now use a heat gun the shrink the tubing over the swedge, the tag end, and the leading end of the cable to protect it from hanging up on anything.

Video to follow soon.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAA first for me in the fall season a surf launch into 50 degree waters. As I don’t typically surf a lunch anyway due to the local Raritan Bay being such a productive and vast fishing location this was a bit out of the ordinary. Every fall the Striped Bass migrates south like many other species. The migration can last a month or a few days.

I have fished the mouth of the bay near the tip of Sandy Hook in the fall and been successful there. Unfortunately while the fish were migrating through that area the weather did not hold and or I was at work. So unfortunately I missed the northern Jersey Bass migration but last chance headed out with “The Coordinator”  Matt Williams on Sunday.  After an hour and a half of driving and stopping at two bait and tackle shops for bait/lures we arrived at the beach. An area we have never fished before. After loading up and dressing up in dry gear onto the sand we wheeled our yaks to the breakers.  When you drop in the same way all the time and go to a surf style launch you need to do things different. This includes stowing gear. What to take with and what not to take. 

The entry is the easy part its all about timing. The waves were small at this point in time and entry was very easy. Once i was off the beach I unpacked my rods and placed them in my rod holders tubes behind me realizing I had forgot my rod leashes. I figured i would be stowing them in the rod stagers and have never dropped a rod overboard so it would be fine. I didn’t have to paddle far to the birds maybe a 1/4 mile. There were thousands of birds and hundreds of boats. Dead calm too even though there were so many boats you could only breath in diesel exhaust and burnt 2 cycle oil. OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAIt sounded like a constant oil tanker was going by. Incredible. Fish swirling everywhere. My fish finder was marking big fish on the bottom so i started jigging. About 20 minutes of jigging i went to set up my other rod with a live eel.  Low and behold it was gone. I didnt tighten down my rod holder and it work its way horizontal and my rod slid out. First time in the salt and no leashes. Nice.. If you love it leash it.  So that was a big dilemma. I had planned to fish two rods one drifting live eels and the other casting plugs and jigging. Now i was typing every lure on since i couldn’t find anything that would work although i somehow snagged a window pain (sun dial) with the 3.5 oz Spro buck tail jig! So I at least wasn’t completely skunked.   Finally 2 hours later switching to live eels and drifting around where birds were working. Not even a shake down on the eel. Another hour went by and this is around the time o took the photos. It got cloudy again and then a dense fog rolled in. I couldn’t see 30 feet in front of me. 10 minutes went by and i noticed a ground swell starting.

groundswell [ˈgraʊndˌswɛl]

n

1. (Earth Sciences / Physical Geography) a considerable swell of the sea, often caused by a distant storm or earthquake or by the passage of waves into shallow water.

Upppp and Dowwwnnnn. Still calm and no wind at this time but chances of surf landing successfully was quickly diminishing.

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERANow to find the beach. This was one of these gearing up decisions that I made. Bring the GPS or Not to bring the GPS. Well im glad i brought it. I was paddling as i thought towards the beach i look at my GPS and I was moving parallel.  I changed course and a few minutes later i could see the tops of the breakers but that was it couldn’t see the beach. I could see the waves were now huge. So i stowed my rod tackle and gear. I tried to time it out but the waves were much faster than  anticipated. Cleared the first two now about 20 feet from the beach the third one caught me odd turned the boat then rolled me. Into the water i plunged boat flipping . As I came to the surface due to my PFD floating me I flipped my boat over seeing that i had forgot to buckle my center hatch. So a few lures brand new sinkers went streight to the bottom. I righted my boat gathered some of the floating stuff and swam to shore holding the rope i attached to the front handle of the yak. Matt helped me with the boat as i went back in the surf to gather my fish finder which i had detached and stowed which was floating in the water (surprised) a water bottle 2 bags of storm shads and a pair of gloves. Loss was the new spoon i bought that day & 3 sinkers along with a Spro hard swim-bait and a Spro buck tail. All i had to do was latch the webbing straps that keep the center hatch latched closed.

I was happy that I wasn’t injured in the surf. Anything could happen including getting tangled up in the boat rigging to the boat hitting you in the body or the head as its being carried by a wave.

Lessons learned. Everything lost could and should have been avoided. Rods should always be leashed. Stow gear and tackle before landing and don’t forget to secure the hatch their stowed in. Two piece dry gear will not keep you dry at all. It just gives you time to get out of the water. The gear also wasn’t completely tucked together right as i had to open it to relieve myself out on the water. It wouldn’t hurt to bring spare clothes and a towel with you to keep in your vehicle Especially if its cold out.

The ocean is a dangerous place. Plan what you will be bringing what you need for safety. Always wear your PFD.