Jackson Kayak Kraken Sealect Designs Trucourse Rudder System Install

Sealect Design ProductsThis article describes step by step how to installation for the Sealect Designs Tru Course rudder system and footbraces on the Jackson Kayak Kraken. The Sealect Designs Tru Course steering is an upgrade to the JK factory kit offered. The Gas Pedal style foot braces are much more comfortable to steer. This install is for both the Kraken 15.5 and the 13.5.

This install begins with a stock “Rudder Ready” Kraken kayak. The definition of “Rudder Ready” is all of the tubing for the control cables and trim line has been installed in the Jackson Kayak factory. Every Jackson Kayak fishing line boat is “Rudder Ready” from the factory. This saves a ton of time on the install not having to drill and run the tubing for the lines.

 

 

Materials and Products:

Sealect Designs Tru-Course Rudder K748150-3

Sealect Designs Tru Course Foot Braces w/ Rudder Control K747205-1

Sealect Designs Trucourse Grudgeon (Rudder Mount Bracket) K748280-1

(2) Sealect Designs Cable Adjusters K747260-1

(4) 1//4″ x 2″ long 7/8″ Hex Bolts

(4) 1/4″ Hole x 1/2″ OD x 5/8″ L Nylon Spacers

30′ Stainless 1/16″ cable rope (Local Kayak Shop)

(2) Swedges

3/8″ Heat Shrink Tubing

Nylon Stop Ball K655140-1

Bike Chain Lube

8″ Length 1/8″ Shock Chord

6 feet of 500 para-chord

Tools:hex keys

Drill

Diagonal Wire Cutters

Heavy duty pliers for crimping Swedges

Screw Drivers

3/8″ Wrench

7/8″ Wrench

Hex Keys (Some Included with kit)

Madd Skillz (Just Kidding) This is a pretty simple install/upgrade!

 

Install:

Click to Enlarge

Click to Enlarge

 

 

Step 1: First you will need to remove the stock foot braces. With a Philips head screw driver and a 3/8″ wrench remove the bolts and the foot braces in their entirety.

 

 

 

 

Step2-3

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Step 2: The holes drilled for the stock foot braces are 14.5″ O.C. which is the same for the new Tru-Course Footbraces. You will need to drill out the existing 1/8″ holes to 1/4″ in the deck of the kayak to accept the new hardware.

Step 3: Pop out and remove the included Tru-Course footbrace hardware. Set aside the washers and nuts. You will reuse these with the new hardware.

 

 

 

 

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Click to Enlarge

 

 

 

Step 4: Using 3/16″ Bungee tie a knot in one end. Feeding the un-knotted end through the hole in the back of the foot brace pedal then tying a knot in that end after passing it through the tie down point on the pedal. This will act as an auto rebound to the center position when not controlling the rudder.

 

 

 

 

Step4

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Step 5: Replace with (2) 1/4″ x 2″ long 7/8″ Hex Stainless Steel Bolts each footrace (4) total. The bolt head will counter sink with the outside of the foot brace U shaped poly brackets along with the new cable adjusters. The threaded portion will penetrate the kayak hull along with the 1/4″ Hole x 1/2″ OD x 5/8″ L Nylon Spacer on the exterior and a washer and the nylon lock nut on the inside of the hull.

 

 

 

foot braces installed

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Step 6: Now to run the steering cable. Feed the cable from the foot brace side through the “rudder ready” tubing to the stern of the kayak. While feeding the cable use the bike chain oil on the cable as you pass it through the tubing. This will help keep salt water and dirt out while keeping the cable sliding freely. You can also feed from the stern if it is your preference.

 

 

 

kraken stern bracket

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rudder and cables

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Step 7: At the stern of the kayak locate two 1/4 20 plastic screws in the molded inserts. Remove them. Using the Sealect Designs Tru-Course Bracket and the stainless 1/4-20 screws along with blue loctite fasten the bracket to the stern. The Bracket should be mounted as pictured with the longer end down.  Slide the rudder post through the horizontal holes in the bracket and secure using the split ring.

 

 

 

 

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Click To Enlarge

 

 

Step 8: On the rudder remove both plastic covers (2 small hex screws) on the rudder exposing the cable tie down point. Loosen the hex screw on the metal cable stop. Slide the cable through the hole in front of the rudder and slide under the metal plate or cable stop at a 90 degree angle so the cable points towards the back. You only need a 1/2 inch of cable beyond the plate. Tighten down on both sides.

 

 

 

foot brace pinned

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Step 9: Back at the foot braces using the included hex key locate a small hole on the face of the foot pedal. Slide the hex key into the hole with the pedal in the upright position find where the key slides in holding the pedal in place. This will be the center position.

 

 

 

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Click To Enlarge

 

 

Step 10: Loosen the grooved guide at the top of the pedal enough to accept the cable. From the stern run the cable through the guide counter clockwise front then to the back through the groove and under running the cable through the adjuster. Now tighten the top guide.

 

 

 

 

 

loop and swedge

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Step 11:  Thread the cable adjuster almost all of the way in. Pulling the cable tight using a swedge make a loop and crimp. Cut the excess cable.

(Sealect Designs prefers to install with the cable swedged or terminated at the footbrace first at the cable adjuster then aligning the rudder and terminating the cable at the rudder.) This is your preference as i have found both ways are as good.

 

 

Step 12: Repeat steps 9-11 on the adjacent side.

trim line at rudder

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Step 13: Run the para-chord from the starboard trim control location. There is factory installed tubing that runs to the stern at the rudder. Tie the trim line to the hole at the top of the Tru-Course Rudder foil.

 

 

 

 

Trim cockpit

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Step 14: At the trim control location slide the trim stop ball onto the para-chord pull the rudder into the trip up position. You do not want the rudder to be parallel to the kayak let it be on a 30 degree angle. This will allow the rudder to trim down automatically. If tied down to tight the rudder may not deploy easily. Tie a loop in the end of the trim line around the J hook to secure.

 

 

 

This completes the Sealect Designs Tru-Course rudder install on the Jackson Kayak Kraken. Good luck, this was the best upgrade to the Kraken I have experienced! Much better turning of the boat keeping her straight in the wind top of the line rudder control and the most comfortable setup out there! The kayak was made for it!

Check out SealectDesigns.com for a local dealer with the dealer locator or call for availability! Phone Ryan at 425-252-2149 and let him know The Plastic Hull sent ya!!

DIY: Make your own Rod Leashes

It is really simple to make your own Bungee Rod Leash. Over time using many different types of rod leashes from DIY coiled wire from old cell phone chargers to rope the bungee chord style leashes I have always liked the best.

Things you will need:

1/8″ Bungee Chord

3/8″ DIA. x 3″ L Heat Shrink Tubing with Adhesive cut in half

rod leash (Large)Cut the 1/8″ bungee to any length you would like. I prefer 30″.  Then cut the heat shrink tubing in half. Slide both pieces of the heat shrink tubing on the bungee. This way you don’t forget to slide the second piece on later. Using pliers position the C-Ring Crimp open end out. make 1.5″ loop at the end of the bungee. and place the tag end and the main line into the crimp. Crimp down making the loop permanent. Make sure by pulling on the bungee it does not slide through the crimp. Next slide over one piece of the heat shrink tubing and using a heat gun or lighter shrink the tubing in place. Open the Sea Clamp and close it through the loop. This is your fishing rod connection.

On the other end slide the tag end through the Carabiner eye. Using the same technique as on the other end crimp a loop. Slide the remaining heat shrink tubing and shrink over.

Your DIY bungee rod leash is now complete.

Understanding Kayak Rigging – Mounting Base Options

Mounting bases are an essential part of rigging and personalizing your fishing kayak for your needs. A mounting base is typically and after market install for adding mounts for rod holders, fish finders, and other personalized accessory’s.  In this article ThePlasticHull.net covers basic and typical mounting hardware and bases along with track systems.

Fasteners:

mounting hardwareThere are 4 main types of fasteners typically used for rigging plastic kayaks.  They are as follows.

  1. Thru Bolt: (Best Mounting Solution. This includes metal backing plates used in track system mounting.)
  2. Rivets: (Second to the best method)
  3. Well Nut & Bolt (Typically used with no inside access)
  4. Self tapping screw (Has its uses)
  5.  Factory molded threaded inserts (Becoming more common. Standard on Jackson fishing Kayaks)

 

Accessory Bases:

These fastening methods are used to install a mounting base. Depending on the accessory there are choices on base options. For a long time mounting a spline base or a flush mount spline base was the best method of installing rod holders and safety flags. With the evolution of kayak fishing and innovative accessory companies like Ram Mount,s Scotty, and Yak Attack new mounting options have been invented. To cover a few of the main mount base options.

  1. Scotty base
  2. RAM Ball Base
  3. Rail Blaza Deck Mount Base

 

Gear Tracks:

The most widely used deck mounting solutions in recent time are track mount bases. Track mounting works just like track lighting. Simply by turning the accessory it can be located and secured in any location on the track desired.  I believe Wilderness Systems were the first to incorporate track mount systems into their fishing line of kayaks. Luther Cyphers of Yak Attack developed first the mighty mount which accepted a T style bolt that also is compatible with a track system.  Later he developed the gear track. The gear track really made rigging possibility’s endless. Also created the ability to slide accessory’s to different positions on the fly.  For paddlers the ability to move rod holders out of your paddle sweep on the fly.

In recent time many other fishing kayak manufacturers are incorporating the Yak Attack Gear track or similar track system into their fishing line of kayaks. Along with the tracks came “T Bolt Accessory’s” . The Screw ball was one of the first solutions for mounting accessory’s to the tracks. The ability to have a RAM Mount accessory on a sliding track made options endless. From mounting Rod Holders to Fish finders and camera mounts.

Scotty and RAM Mount spline bases can be adapted to work with track systems by utilizing the Yak Attack MightyMount Post Mount kit. Check it out here!

For 2015 Yak Attack has done it again with a new innovative track system that enables mounting accessory’s from any point on the track. No more sliding from one end to another. Mount between already mounted accessory’s! This is going to make it easy!

 

For more information on GearTrack Mounting Hardware go to YakAttack.us!

Disclaimer:

Installing hardware may cause damage and/or void manufacturer warranties.  ThePlasticHull.net its authors or any other source of information on this website is in no way responsible for your actions nor any type issues or damage that may occur.  The information provided on this website is a free reference guide only. The authors of all information, sponsors and the owners of the website that host this information are not liable for any problems or issues that arise from the use of this information. Users of this information hereby acknowledge that all use of this information is done by their own free will, at their own sole risk, understanding that destruction of property, injury, or death could occur.
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